Spain is famous for simple, healthy ingredients – they even put olive oil in their cookies for heaven’s sake! Here are six healthy Spanish foods that are so tasty you will forget that they are good for you.

1. Little Fishes

Small fish like sardines and anchovies are so tasty and so good for you! With plenty of beneficial oils and little danger of toxins, little fish are a wonder food. In Spain anchovies are either packed in olive oil and vinegar (and called boquerones, or white anchovies) or salted and called anchoas. Boquerones are very mild and much less salty. Sardines are typically canned within hours of harvest and are tiny and delicate (unlike some of the monsters you can find at the grocery store!)

2. Treasured Veggies

Spain values quality over quantity when it comes to jarring and canning – and their vegetable preserves are amazing. Picked at the peak of ripeness and cleaned and packed by hand, all of the flavor and nutrients are captured for you to enjoy later on a sandwich or salad. Wood fire roasted piquillo peppers or super-tender baby artichoke hearts from Navarra are both favorites.

3. Nuts for Almonds

Marcona almonds in particular! This superfood is packed with beneficial fats and vitamins that help lower blood sugar levels, reduce blood pressure and lower cholesterol levels. Our marcona almonds boast more beneficial nutrients than common almonds, plus they taste amazingly rich and delicious! Skip the M&Ms and grab a handful of marconas.

4. Healthy Ham…No, Really!

Now for Spain’s miracle comestible, a ham that is luxuriously delicious and also healthy! Jamón Ibérico de Bellota comes from happy 100% free range Ibérico pigs that feast on herbs, grasses and sweet antioxidant rich acorns. After curing for over two years, the fat of Ibérico de Bellota ham contains over 55% oleic acid, which is clinically proven to battle bad cholesterol in your body. Only extra virgin olive oil has a higher oleic acid content. So savor each bite of this magnificent ham, knowing you are doing your body a favor.

5. Apitherapy...Super Honey

These pure honeys from Valencia are aromatic and sweet, but also fortified with supremely healthy boosters like bee pollen, royal jelly and propolis. Boost your immune system, soothe your sore throat and start your day with a delicious sweetness.

6. Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Small Batch Only Please)

OK, this may seem like an obvious one – extra virgin olive oil is so good for you that some people in Spain drink a dose every day as a preventative medicine! But not all oils are created equal. Remember the three most important features – purity, freshness and quality. If it costs less than $10 a bottle it is probably low quality and may be a blend of extra virgin olive oil and (gasp!) cheap industrial oil. Great olive oil should have a fresh, bright aroma and a bit of spicy zing – those are the healthy oleic acids saying ‘hola’! Finally, buy from a local shop that sells small batch oils, not a brand distributed by a giant grocery chain (not to pick on just one brand, but you will not find a farmer named Bertoli lovingly tending his olive trees).

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I have posted this itinerary in conjunction with my June 2011 Reflection posted on www.latienda.com, which details this unique expression of piety and music in Cuenca (with the hope that you might be tempted to choose this wonderful experience in the future).

Day 1 - Monday of Holy Week

Iberia Airlines from Richmond, via Chicago, to Madrid/Barajas Airport.

Day 2 - Tuesday of Holy Week

Morning

07:40 – We arrived at Barajas, the Airport of Madrid, rented a car, and drove an easy two hours on fine roads from the airport to Cuenca. A diesel vehicle saves on fuel, and is smooth and quiet to drive. We checked into Rusticae Posada San José, adjacent to Plaza Mayor (tel 91 859 56 65), and stayed there there until morning of Good Friday. It was built in the 18C as the school and lodging for the cathedral choir boys. Excellent staff.

Afternoon

Siesta

17:00 - Concert: Chant in the Tradition of the Benedictine Order performed at the Iglesia de la Merced, by the Choir School of the Benedictine Abbey of Santa Cruz of the Valle de los Caidos.

Evening

21:30 – Procession of Forgiveness begins to enter the Plaza Mayor. Pasos include John the Baptist, the Baptism of Jesus, Mary Magdalene, Medinaceli Jesús, and the Virgin of Hope. Procession begins at 20:00 at the Church of El Salvador, and ends the next morning at 03:00.

Day 3 - Wednesday of Holy Week

Morning

We visited the unique Gothic Anglo-Norman Cathedral begun by Alfonso VIII and his wife Eleanore of Aquitaine, along with the Cloister and the Diocesan Museum.

Afternoon

12:30 – ‘Procession de las Beguinas’ performed at Iglesia de San Felipe Neri, by Psallantes Femina, a group of seven women from Bruges, Belgium. As the processed around the church we were surrounded by extraordinarily pure voices.

Evening

19:00 - Procession of Silence: began at the lower city, arriving at Plaza Mayor at 22:00, where the penitents rested before descending from the old city, pausing to sing the Miserere at San Felip Neri. Pasos include: The Last Supper, Agony in the Garden, Judas’ Kiss, Peter the Apostle, The Denial of St Peter, ‘Ecce Homo of San Miguel’, Our Lady of Bitterness, accompanied by St John. We had a perfect vantage point standing along the cobble-stoned Calle Alfonso VIII which lead directly to the Plaza Mayor. So narrow is the curb that the rows of spectators can only be 2 or 3 deep.

Day 4 - Thursday of Holy Week

Morning

Visit Artesania – Artwork by local artists located in a former church around the corner from the Diocesan Museum. Moderately priced. Then, visit the Semana Santa Museum.

Afternoon

17:00 – Liturgical Office of Tenebrae written by Tomás Luís de Victoria performed at the Iglesia de San Miguel by Schola Antigua Ensemble Plus Ultra, a monastic chorus formed by graduates from the Choir School of the Benedictine Abbey of Santa Cruz of the Valle de los Caidos.

Evening

20:00 – Plaza Mayor continuation of the Procession of Peace and Charity. It begins at 16:30 at lower city, where the Miserere is sung at the Iglesia S Felipe Neri, and ends at Midnight. Pasos include: Christ of Mercy-Jesús praying in the Garden, Scourging of Jesus tied to the Column, ‘Ecce Homo of San Gil’, Fallen Jesus and S. Veronica, and Our Lady of Sorrow.

Day 5 - Good Friday

Morning

05:30 – The dramatically riveting Procession to Calvary arrived at the Plaza Mayor at approximate 0830. Pasos include Jesus the Nazarene, Jesús and Veronica, S John the Apostle, Meeting of Jesus and Mary, Our Lady of Sorrow, and El Salvador. Traditionally Jesus is greeted by crowds with drums and horns and broncos (scorning shouts) led by brotherhoods who have stayed awake all night.

There are processions all day Friday in Cuenca, but we decided to see other unique celebrations in the general area of Aragón, by following what is designated as La Ruta de los Tambores – The Route of the Drums.

10:00 – Drive one hour to Albarracín, a dramatic mountaintop village designated one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. There we witnessed the Good Friday convergence of drummers from the various barrios, each group answering one another in counterpoint.

Afternoon

15:00 – Check into Parador in Alcañiz, Castle and Convent – Order of Calatrava.

17:00- Go to village of Alcorisa, with local Passion Play: Drama de la Cruz, culminating in a 2100 Procession to Mt Calvary.

Evening

22:00 – Visited the small village of Calanda, where over a thousand drummers accompany the multiple processions which meet in the Plaza Mayor.

Day 6 - Holy Saturday

Afternoon

16:00 – Alcañiz Procession of the Holy Burial (Santo Entierro) with flags, and continued our observance by driving about an hour to Zaragoza site of the Basilica of Santa María del Pilar.

Checked into hotel NH Ciudad de Zaragoza. (The address is: Avenida Cesar Augusto 125 – Tel: 97 644 2100. It is adequate, clean and perfectly located).

Evening

22:00 – Holy Saturday procession with drums from San Juan de Penetes to Basilica.

Day 7 - Easter

Morning

12:00 – Mass at Basilica of Santa María del Pilar.

This is an itinerary designed by my good friend Pablo Vázquez. -Don

Galicia is a small area, so you can reach the farther place in less than 3 hours by car. Galícia is well connected from north to south and from the Atlantic Coast to Castilla by highways (AP-9 has toll, A-52 is free). If you like, there are thousands of forest with “green paths” to walk, for example near Silleda there is a hidden waterfall “Fervenza da Toxa”, the highest of Galícia. (Flickr album) and a 6km route that goes the Monasterio of Carboeiro.

Beginning in the North, in Lugo province, and following the coast to the south, there are many places. I will give you suggestions as I remember, so you can build a tour with the things you really are interested in.

So...here we go!

Lugo

The city is old and compact with a beautiful historical center surrounded by well- preserved Roman walls. It’s a city where you can dine very well. Near the city, you can visit Playa de la Catedral, but you can only visit it with low tide.

On the northern coast, most of the little villages are beautiful traditional fishing ports. I think Viveiro and Ortigueira are the most beautiful ones. Nothing special, just nice little villages to dine, and walk some hours. In Ortigueira you can find “the most beautiful site of the world,” where the Atlantic ocean meet the Cantabrian sea.

The most traditional area of Galícia is “Os Ancares,” because some mountains and villages remain unconnected on winter. Here you can find “pallozas,” Galician pre-Romanesque houses.

Coruña

The city is beautiful and comfortable for walking to the coast. I was there at the university for 5 years. There is a continuous 10km seafront from Monte San Pedro (where is an abandoned coastal artillery base reconverted to a nice garden with impressive views of the city) to the Torre de Hércules, the world’s oldest Roman lighthouse still in use. You can visit the tower and go to the top. You may prefer go in a historical tram rather than walking.

In Monte San Pedro you have a panoramic elevator over the cliff, or you can park up in the garden. There’s a good café and restaurant on the top. In the city I would suggest the Plaza of María Pita, with its “Cantóns” (galleries). A good restaurant is in the Casa do Home.

Santiago de Compostela

Of course, you already know, I love the old city. There are so many pilgrims from other countries; it is a mix between a cosmopolitan city and a medieval city. Cathedral and old town: must visit!

You can also visit Ferrol city (30 minutes north). The city its not very beautiful but the bay is, protected with two antique fortresses, which you can visit. It has important naval shipyards and a naval base. There is a museum about navigation. By Pontedeume, if you like you can spend a day walking in a Natural Park, visiting monasteries, churches, and castles, Fragas do Eume is the place.n

Going south you find the “Costa da Morte“ (Coast of Death). There are many fishing villages, cliffs, rocks, rough sea most of the time, with many people lost to the stormy sea. Already in the first five months of 2014, twenty people have died. The two Capes and lighthouses are interesting to see.

Cabo Vilán and lighthouse: just a big lighthouse over the cliffs. The lighthouse has a little museum with some old machines and lights.

Near Vilán lighthouse, there is an old British cemetery, almost in the middle of nowhere, where lay some of the young sailor who died in the HMS Serpent sinking. Still today people of the place leave flowers here.

Finisterre (Latin: finisterrae, where the Earth ends) is the real end of the Way of Santiago. If you want only to visit one place, this is the one. Near Finisterre there is a little town, Ézaro, with a big waterfall directly coming from a dam to the sea, illuminated some nights. Following the coast to the south, you will find (20 min. walking from the parking) Castro de Baroña.

Pontevedra

Following the coast from north to south you will arrive at the province of Pontevedra, and may be you can stop for a visit.

O Grove is another fishing harbor. Like seafood? This is the place: “Feira do Marisco” (seafood’s fair) on October. The longest Galician beach is here, very windy, dangerous currents in the water, and almost natural: A Lanzada.

Very, very near there is a long hidden wooden place to take a quiet walk following the sea.

It’s a local secret, so...sssh! Some abandoned coastal artillery can be seen in a still military area. I was inside taking pics by error one, but escaped without problems.

Sanxenxo and Portonovo are two very touristic village where many people from Madrid have summer residences in order to avoid the saturated beaches of the Mediterranean . Juan beach and seafront. Nothing more.

From Sanxenxo you can take a boat and spend a day of beach and walking at Ons Island. But I recommend better the Cíes Islands. A lot more beautiful.

Combarro, with its “horreos” next to the sea, is a must visit too. I have some pics of Combarro in my Flickr album. From Combarro is only about 10min to the city of Pontevedra, which in turn is 20 min by highway from Vigo.

Vigo, My City

It’s not a very beautiful city (mostly industrial), but I will recommend some places for you to visit. If you come via the AP-9 from the north, you will cross the Puente de Rande. This is a hanging bridge over the bay, and as all the streets are steep up or down; this is why they call Vigo the “Galician San Francisco.”

Nº Sra. de A Guía – a chapel on the top of a mountain with nice views of the bay Monte do Castro. Also on top of the city is an old fortress and Samil beach. A great seashore for a day’s a walk on the beach.

Cíes Islands: a must visit: From Vigo or Baiona, take a boat and spend a whole day at the islands (natural park). Only 2,000 people allowed per day, so make a reservation first.

There’s a nice 60 min walk to the lighthouse on the top. You can spend the day walking if you like. San Simón Island. Old jail, old hospital, now museum.

Near Vigo, in Mondariz, you can spend a night in the resort and sleep in the local hotel.

Baiona

You can pass the night at the beautiful Parador, that is an old fortress, and take a walk around the historical center (very little) and the surroundings. You can visit some old water mills “Muiños do Folón e do Picón”.

Near, there is a nice lighthouse, Silleiro, where I use to go to relax with my bike, and an underground abandoned military base you can go in (very very very dark and dirty, better just look this pics)

A Guardo - 30 Minutes South of Baiona

Take a walk at the harbor with the houses painted on colors, or go to the top of the Monte de Santa Tecla to see the end of the Miño river, the Insua fortress, and Portugal (amazing views). Often it it windy! In Monte Santa Tecla you will find the rests of a big “Castro”. Three thousand people lived here on the II century before Christ!

You can visit the North of Portugal too. On Saturdays Vilanova de Cerveira (30min from Vigo) has a big fair where you can everything from clothes, animals, seeds, plants...everything. Less than hour by highway is Braga, with the Bom Jesus do Monte. A very beautiful place to spend an afternoon. The center is a nice place to walk in and drink some wines. Coffee “colao” is awesome in Portugal!

Closing the circle you can go by the A-52 free highway back to Madrid, stopping in Ourense Province. In Ourense city, as always, the historical center is beautiful. You can visit the cathedral, the old streets surrounding and Burgas, natural thermal font with the water going out about 65ºC. There’s an impressive roman bridge over the Miño river in the center of the city and a long, long fluvial walk by both the riversides.

Taking the N-525 to Santiago, you will pass Cea, maybe buy some bread, and visit the Oseira monastery. Don visited last year.

Out of the city, following the N-120 road to the west you reach Os Peares, where Miño and Sil rivers converge. You are in the Ribeira Sacra. Good expensive wines are produced in the river side.

In this area you can visit Santo Estevo monastery (you can also sleep there), or take a guided visit by boat, that will explain to you all about the river and the wines. Reservation needed, only a few hours available.

Near Monforte de Lemos there is another little antique village, and going towards Madrid, Verín has a nice Parador and castle. Don already knows. Already out of Galícia, Puebla de Sanabria is interesting, too.

Hope you like and enjoy Galícia!

Un abrazo.

Pablo

Many people are unaware of this Celtic region in northwest Spain, north of Portugal. With bagpipes, rias/fjords and rolling green hills dotted with cows, Galicia reminds many people of Ireland. The Gallegos are distinct down-to-earth people. There is some evidence that the Celts of the British Isles migrated from this part of Spain. This compact itinerary we found very satisfying. We were in the region in March, 2011 and were surprised to find many fruit trees in bloom!

Driving along the shoreline of Galicia is a delightful experience as you visit picturesque fishing villages as well as some teeming ports. At the same time if you turn inland you will find rolling hills and grazing cows. The heart of Galicia is Santiago de Compostela, a pilgrimage destination for over 1000 years. You will meet modern-day pilgrims walking towards Santiago and on to Cabo Fisterra (Finisterra), the end of the world.

Day 1 - Arrival from Barajas/Madrid Airport

Fly to Santiago de Compostela – it is an easy connection from Madrid. If you are coming from the USA your transcontinental arrival should be between 7 and 10 AM, and the Santiago flight is around 12:30 PM. Take time to rest for 23 hours if you have jet lag, and then explore the medieval city.

We have stayed in several hotels in Santiago, and have found our stays at the Parador de los Reyes Católicos to be extraordinary – worth every dime. It is a splendid hotel erected in 1492 by Queen Isabel and her husband Fernando (known as the Catholic Monarchs) as a hospital and resting place for pilgrims. Priceless antique items from the Middle Ages dot the hallways. The four granite patios of the medieval hospital are dedicated to the four evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. It is an unforgettable experience, and the service is exquisite. The Hotel San Francisco situated directly behind to Parador de los Reyes Católicos is also a good option – nicely appointed but less expensive.

Day 2 - Santiago de Compostela

Start your day visiting the awesome Romanesque Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, for over 1,000 years the goal of the Camino de Santiago, a major pilgrimage route. Behind the high altar many pilgrims pause to embrace the bust of Santiago (St James) and visit his crypt below.

As you stroll through the granite arcades of the town you will encounter pilgrims from all over the globe as well as young medical school students and music majors from the University of Santiago – it is a delightful mix of people. It is fun to stroll the ancient arcaded sidewalks and the many shops.

On the outside of town is the 12th century Colegiata de Santa María del Sar which has curiously slanted columns despite sturdy flying buttresses built between the 17th and 18th centuries. You might try having dinner at Don Quixote Restaurant, which, despite its name, is not a tourist restaurant but rather one the local people enthusiastically support. We found their seafood and fish artfully and simply cooked. To get there from the Parador, continue down the hill and turn right. Soon you will find the restaurant. We feasted on amazingly fresh seafood – my favorite dish is steamed berberechos – tiny cockles or clams.

Return to Parador de los Reyes Católicos.

Day 3 - Experiencing the Fishing Villages

Drive south toward the shoreline and the many rias or fjords which feed into the Atlantic Ocean. It is the perfect habitat for much of the sea life which thrive in the ocean. Enjoy the protection of the many inlets. Arrive in Aguiño: a picturesque fishing village with beautiful beaches. The fishermen there specialize in catching the local delicacies: pulpo or octopus.

As you wander along the shoreline you will come upon the bustling fishing port of Muros, an excellent example of a typical fishing town. It has a history that has been firmly linked since its foundation in the 10th century with fishing, shellfish gathering and factories to salt sardines and mackerel. In the 19th and early 20th century there were more than thirty. In the middle ages Muros was one of the Galicia’s most important ports, had a large fishing fleet and was the home of renowned seafarers. This splendor may still be felt as you walk through its narrow, winding streets. The tapas bar district near the port is the picturesque focal point of the city, with the neighboring areas of the Peixería Vella (old fish market square) full of life, particularly in the morning and evening, after the fish auction held on the quayside.

Cabo Fisterra is the final destination for many pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, after they have visited to the shrine of the apostle James in the cathedral. It is about a 56 mile walk from Santiago de Compostela. The origin of the pilgrimage walking to Finisterre possibly date from pre-Christian or medieval times, when “hospitals” were established to serve the pilgrims walking along the route from Santiago de Compostela to Cabo Fisterra. A curious and relatively new tradition that was established between the pilgrims is the burn of their clothes when they arrive in Fisterra.

Some pilgrims continue on to Muxia, which is a day’s walk away. You will find a lighthouse built in 1853 and the Castillo de San Carlos.

As you drive by A Coruña, enjoy the beautiful shoreline view as you continue to El Ferrol. On the way, you might like to stop at Betanzos. It is a medieval walled town which preserves three of its original four gates. Then, drive to El Ferrol and stay at the Parador El Ferrol, next to the naval base. It is a nice place to rest.

Day 4 - Cantabrian Sea and the Ancient Lugo

After exploring the two medieval castles: Castillo de San Felipe and Castillo de la Palma in El Ferrol, drive up to the northern coast and turn east to the small town of Sargadelos. There you can visit a porcelain pottery which produces some of the most noteworthy examples of contemporary design. Then, continue into the interior of Galícia to the medieval town of Lugo surrounded by intact Roman walls. Take time to visit the San Francisco Monumento and the Gothic Convento y Iglesia de San Francisco. The dairies in the vicinity of this medieval walled city contribute to the production of tetilla, a mild, nutty cow’s milk cheese, somewhat similar to Edam from Holland.

Proceed to Monforte de Lemos and stay at Parador Monforte de Lemos which overlooks the town. The Parador was formerly the Monastery of San Vicete do Pino and the Conde de Lemos Palace.

Day 5 - Ourense

The cathedral is the most important monument in Ourense. Founded in 1188 AD, it is the second oldest church in Galícia. The sculpture on the tympanum at the entrance was made by Maestro Mateo, the same sculptor who adorned the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. In the Ourense cathedral, however, because of its preservation you still can appreciate much of the original polychrome coloring of the granite sculpture. Then, walk though the remarkable Ponte Vella, an old bridge with Roman foundations. The Provincial Archaeological Museum is also worth visiting.

Nearby, you might want to visit an ancient, yet accessible fortress on a hill overlooking Verín. It is the Castillo de Monterrei. The young lady who is the guide is pleasant and knowledgeable.

Drive to Baiona. It was there that caravel La Pinta moored in 1493 bringing the first news about the voyage to the New World. The Parador de Baiona is breathtaking – midway between a medieval fortress and a manor house, surrounded by a pine forest. It commands impressive views of the Atlantic.

Day 6 - Vigo to Cambados

Proceed to the bustling port of Vigo. Take time to visit at least one of its museums and the Castro Fortress built in 1665.

Next, drive up the coast to Pontevedra, traditionally believed to be founded by a survivor of the Trojan War. The Roman bridge spanning the Léres River stands intact from the 1st century BC. The city reached its apogee on the 15th century when it became an important commercial center. Another curious fact is that the Christopher Columbus’s ship Santa María, originally named “Gallego”, was built in Pontevedra. You might like to stop and explore the second-largest medieval town in Galícia – only rivaled by Santiago de Compostela. We recommend a visit to the Capela da Virxe Peregrina (the chapel of the pilgrims). It has a Jacobean influence with a scallop plan shaped and a picture of the Pilgrim Virgin on the main facade.

Finally, drive to Cambados, a lovely fishing port and resort. Some of the finest gourmet seafood such as berberechos (cockles), percebes (barnacles) pulpo (octopus) are tinned there. Cambados is the capital of Albariño, the world-famous sparkling white wine. Be sure to enjoy it locally, because the wine is quite fragile and does not travel well. An excellent place to stay is Pazo a Capitana. One of our favorites in all of Spain.

Day 8 - Padrón

The most famous production of Padrón are its small green peppers known as Pimientos de Padrón. They are sauteed in olive oil and sprinkled with course sea salt. Most taste sweet and mild, but a few are very hot and spicy – and there’s no way to tell which one is which! Some people have referred to eating them as “Spanish roulette.” The peppers grown in August and September tend to be more hot/spicy than those of June and July. Apparently they contain more capsaicin than the ones of June and July.

According to tradition, Padrón is the site where the apostle James first preached during his stay in Spain. Soon after his death by decapitation in Jerusalem, his disciples placed the remains of the martyr in a stone boat and sailed across the Mediterranean and up the Atlantic coast of the Iberian peninsula. They finally moored the boat to padrón (Spanish word for “big stone”). If you would like to visit the stone “padrón”, it still can be seen today at the Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol de Padrón. There is also the Iglesia de Santa María Mayor de Iria Flavia. It is a curious building with a small graveyard packed with gravestones.

Drive to Santiago – Puerto del Camiño Airport.

Good morning everybody, I am Pablo Vázquez, a good friend of Don Harris. I wanted to show you a bit more of my city, Vigo, and its bay. I think the bay is the most beautiful part of the city, life goes around it, as Vigo was born around a fishing neighborhood: O Berbés.

O Berbés, about the 1920's. The arches on the houses ere for guarding the boats. Many of these houses still exist today.

Ok, let’s go! Today I went for a walk here (about 10 min. by car from home). This is Toralla Island, a private residential island. You can go the island and use the two little beaches it has each side of the bridge, but no access is allowed to the residential area.

Under the ground of the island is know the existence of a Roman cemetery and a VI B.C. pre-Roman village. There is an university marine scientific center too, some very very expensive houses, and a awful and controversial apartment building.

The photo is looking towards the West, to the Atlantic and America, so if you look to the left, you’re looking on the way to Baiona (South). But today we’re going to look right, to Vigo city, a bit inside the bay.

On the left at the bottom you can see the Cíes Islands. It’s a natural park, protected with only 2000 people per day allowed to go. You can visit them by boat and camp for some days. You have to carry your water, or buy it, and bring back your garbage. Great place for spending a day.

On the right, at the bottom, the mountains you see are the other side of the bay of Vigo, called O Morrazo. People from out of Vigo used to come to Vigo’s beaches, now people from Vigo to go to Morrazo’s less saturated and more virgin beaches. So great traffic jams at the end of the afternoon on summer coming back to Vigo, to cross the Bridge of Rande. So in 2-4 years, two more lanes will be added to the bridge.

The bridge was built over the Rande strait, where in 1702 took place the Battle of Rande:

The battle was fought on the 23rd of October, 1702 between the Anglo-Dutch and French-Spanish fleets, during the War of the Spanish Succession.Spanish galleons reached the Vigo estuary laden with the greatest treasure that ever crossed the Atlantic: gold, silver and jewels… And this is where the legend diverges: one side of the story ensures that the galleons took refuge in Vigo, where they were attacked with the load still aboard, the other states that the treasure had already been unloaded… although no one knew where it was taken.

The truth is that Jules Verne turned Captain Nemo into the first treasure hunter of the Vigo estuary in his novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Since then, there have been hundreds of expeditions in the waters of the Vigo estuary in search of the treasure. For example, in 2011 six more shipwrecks from the battle were located and identified.

Many rest of these ships can be seen at some parks of the city. This pic is in the O Castro Mountain, the top of the city.

...and even Jules Verne was in the city and incorporated it in his most known novel with Captain Nemo trying to find the sunken treasure.

So...you give us publicity in your novel...so we are setting up a monument to you in our harbor.

And in the inner part of the bay, there is another tiny Island, San Simón (ex-Templar monastery, ex-hospital, ex-civil war concentration camp).

...with another monument to Jules Verne that shows him with his novel, and two frogmen from Nemo’s crew searching for the treasure -you can only see them when the tide is low.

Hope you enjoyed this tiny travel.

Pablo

Following this route we revisited some of our favorite towns of Andalucía before heading north along the Portuguese border in Extremadura. We turned west to the Celtic lands of Galicia including the pilgrimage city of Santiago de Compostela and along the Cantabrian coast to Asturias (where the Reconquista began in the 8th century). We headed south to León driving through a breathtaking mountain pass in the Picos de Europa lingering in the pilgrimage villages and the forgotten medieval towns of Castilla. Finally, we relaxed in the sublimely peaceful Avila and thence to iconic Toledo.

Day 1 - Arrival in Sevilla

Rent a car at the Sevilla Airport to be returned to the Barajas Airport in Madrid. Drive east to Carmona and stay at Casa de Carmona: an amazing 16th century villa, complete with sun swathed patios. Attentive service, lots of ambiance, with a true eclectic Andalucian feel and excellent cuisine by hotelier Felipe Guardiola. On the other hand, you might choose the stunning Parador built on the site of Pedro the Cruel’s fortress in Carmona. More conventional but an architectural jewel.

Day 2 - Pueblas Blancas/White Cities

Drive to Arcos de la Frontera and visit the 15th century Castillo de Arcos. After lunch, drive along the countryside to El Puerto de Santa María and you can visit the Osborne sherry Bodega – Bodega de Mora. As an alternative, you can take ferry across the bay to Cádiz. Stroll around this ancient walled city, founded three thousand years ago by the Phoenicians. Some of the freshest fish you will ever enjoy. El Faro restaurant is an institution, and there are many impromptu restaurants grilling the day’s catch.

Day 3 - Sherry Towns

One of my favorite bodegas is the Pedro Romero Bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which also has marvelous barrels of sherry vinegar. To get there from Carmona, take A-4 exit 44 at Las Cabezas de San Juan following on to Rt A-471 via the flamenco towns of Lebrija and Trebujena. In neighboring Jerez de la Frontera you might also enjoy González Byass bodega, makers of Tio Pepe. My favorite boutique bodega is Gutiérrez Colosía located by the ferry slip in El Puerto de Santa María. Our warm and gracious friends, Carmen and Juan Carlos, are dedicated creators of the finest boutique sherries.

Day 4 - Sevilla

Drive to Sevilla and park the car in a underground parking lot near the cathedral plaza. Walk to the Cathedral of Santa María de la Sede (Sevilla Cathedral), the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and burial place of Christopher Columbus. The Giralda Tower, intended to be a minaret before the Reconquista, makes an interesting climb. It is wide enough to ride up on a horse (not recommended).

Proceed to Alcázar. This fortress is adjacent to the Cathedral and it is a beautiful medieval Islamic palace showcasing a unique fusion of Spanish Christian and Moorish architecture. It was initiated by Pedro the Cruel using the same architects who designed the Alhambra in Granada – I think of the Alcázar as “Alhambra Light”, having much the same feel without the crush of the crowds. Stay at Parador Zafra Hermán Cortés in Zafra, which is about an hour and a half drive north from Sevilla. You will enjoy staying in a perfect castle, although it is now surrounded by the town. Across from the parador there is the beautiful understated terra cotta ceramics by María Vinagre.

Day 5 - Hervás to Salamanca

In Mérida, find the tasteful Museum of Roman Antiquity and an intact Roman theater. Then, drive to Garrovillas de Alconétar, a remote town which is an “off the beaten track” treasure. Lunch at Candelario, a picturesque city considered by many to be one of the most beautiful towns in Spain. Proceed to the monastic village of Hervás: founded by the Knights Templar in the 12th century.

When you arrive at the stately city of Salamanca, don’t miss the classic Plaza Mayor and the University square. Stay at the Palácio de Estéban Hotel: modern, yet tasteful hotel with an attentive staff. It is located next to the Plaza Mayor and the old and new Cathedrals.

Day 6 - Salamanca to Verín

In the morning, take time to visit the Salamanca Cathedral. Then, proceed to the famous Cathedral of Zamora, whose unique dome is in displayed in many art history books. There are over 27 Romanesque buildings in Zamora, making up the largest concentration in the world. Drive to Verín and visit Monterrei Castle: an attractive castle on a hill overlooking the parador. There is a guide until 6:00 PM and also an interesting small museum. Stay at Parador de Verín. This hilltop Parador is an oasis of peace and tranquility 1.86 miles outside the market town of Verín. It overlooks the Monterrei valley with Portugal just 12 miles to the south. Delicious cuisine and warm hospitality.

Day 7 - Galícia

Ourense has a cathedral built in 572 AD. The sculpture over the west door tympanum is virtually a replica of the one Portico de Gloria at the cathedral in Santiago, as it comes from the same artist, Maestro Mateo. In many ways it is even more striking because some of the original paint remains on the figures. Then, drive to San Cristóbal de Cea to visit the famous bakers. The bread is touted to be the greatest bread in the world. It is baked in a wood fired oven in each baker’s home. They begin their day at 3AM, and do not take the last loaves out of the oven until 4 PM!

While waiting for your fresh baked bread, which will be ready later in the afternoon, visit the neighboring Monasterio Santa María Mayor de Oseira. During the Middle Ages this vast monastery controlled a large area. Within the monastery is an impressive Cistercian chapel. The Monastery supplied the flour for the bakers of Cea. Upon arrival at the monastery you will be greeted graciously by one of six monks. On the tour the guide showed us the scriptorium. We met two monks who worked together to illustrate Bible passages for the internet in the same room where for centuries manuscripts were copied by hand.

Return to the baker in San Cristóbal de Cea to pick up fresh bread and drive a few minutes to Parador de los Reyes Católicos in Santiago de Compostela where you will spend the next two nights. Erected as a hospital / shelter for pilgrims by Queen Isabel and her husband Fernando, it is a magnificent building, filled with priceless artifacts. Worth every dime (or is it a peseta).

Day 8 - Santiago de Compostela

Start your day visiting the major pilgrimage destination since Middle Ages: the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Lunch at the Parador restaurant. Another great place to have lunch – or dinner – is Don Quixote restaurant. To get there, continue down the hill from the parador, turn right and soon you will find the restaurant, recommended by the Ramón the parador conserje. He was right: we feasted on amazingly fresh seafood from the local area cooked artfully. My favorite dish is the steamed berberechos - tiny clams.

Day 9 - Lugo to Cangas de Onís

Lugo is a remarkable walled city where you can can walk around the stone battlements. I find the Municipal Market a lot of fun with seafood so fresh it is still wiggling, and bowers of fresh greens and vegetables, not to mention loaves of Pan Gallego – Galician bread with its crunchy crust and a glutenous interior filled with holes.

Drive north about an hour to have lunch in Ribadeo at the Restaurante San Miguel which overlooks the boat harbor. There its excellent food is attentively served. Proceed to Cangas de Onís (2 hours from Ribadeo). The ancient site of civilization since the time of dolmens Visigoths which was the nexus of resistance to the Moors. In the hills the shepherds here make a precious Gamaneo sheep’s milk cheese. Stay at Parador Monasterio de San Pedro de Villanueva: an amazing 12th century stone structure located by a running brook where the sportsmen come to try their luck. There is a new section of rooms which are fine in every way; but if you want to treat yourself, ask for one of the suites located inside the old monastery. They are beautifully appointed and it is quite a treat to fall asleep hearing a bubbling brook outside your window.

Day 10 - Cangas de Onís and Environs

Visit the shrine of Covadonga, one of the most sacred places in Spain. Tradition says it was here that the Christian mountain warriors of Astorias, led by Don Pelayo, defeated the Moors for the first time. Proceed to Villaviciosa and visit Salvador de Valdediós popularly called “El Conventín”. Seven bishops consecrated the church in 893 AD. It is the last great work of the Asturian architecture.

After finishing our visit to the building we walked over to a tiny roadside restaurant where we encountered the world’s most gigantic tortilla española. It could have easily served 10 people. When I asked for a smaller version, the cook shook his head and told me this was the only size he knew how to make! But the price was right, so we shared the tortilla with a family at the next table! You might like to try it. Also in the town of Villaviciosa you will find the Iglesia de Santa María de Oliva, built after 1270 AD. On the south portal you can see unusual hunting scenes carved on some of the capitals.

Day 11 - The Amazing Riaño Gorge Route to León

Start your day visiting the outdoor market featuring handmade Gamaneo cheese and breads in Cangas de Onís. Then, drive to León via the breathtaking route N-625 – Sierra de Riaño gorge. On the way, in Gradefes, take time to see the beautiful Convent/Church de Santa María la Real.

Continue driving to León via San Miguel de Escalada, built by Mozarabic craftsmen who led the Moorish kingdoms to the south, and stay at the Hotel Real Collegiata San Isidoro, but be forewarned – it is a puzzle to find since some of the streets are reserved for pedestrians only. We ended up calling the front desk and he guided us to the free parking by the hotel.

Day 12 - León

In León, visit the Cathedral of Santa María de León, a classic gothic structure almost entirely enclosed in stained glass. On a sunny day it is dazzling to stand inside the church surrounded by such beauty! Close by is the Basilica of San Isidoro. Within it is the funeral chapel of the kings of León. The Royal Pantheon is one of the finest examples of surviving Romanesque murals in León. The columns are crowned with rare Visigothic capitals, with floral or historic designs. The 12th century painted murals are in an exceptional state of preservation and consist of an ensemble of New Testament subjects along with scenes of contemporary rural life.

Day 13 - León to Maderuelo

Drive from León to Burgos to tour its Cathedral. It is an exhausting three-hour tour but worth it. The amazing cathedral was built at the end of the gothic period and is endowed with extravagant chapels funded by the wealthy patrons of the era. The chapel at the west end of the cathedral attracts many of the devout because of its strikingly realistic depiction of Christ on the Cross. Then, visit the pilgrimage towns of Frómista and Carrión de los Condes on theCamino de Santiago. You may well encounter modern day pilgrims who are making the 400 mile trek from France across northern Spain, as they have for over a thousand years.

Arrive at medieval walled village of Maderuelo with a population of only 156 people. Outside the walls of the town by the riverside is the Hermitage of Vera Cruz de Maderuelo with priceless mural covering its interior. At the café close to the hermitage you will find the man with the key hanging out with the young men of the town. Stay at Casa Maderolum. This is a B&B operated by a very cordial couple. There are practically no people in the town, and few signs – and not even a rooster can be heard. So be patient when you look for your lodging. Eventually someone will poke his head out of the doorway.

Day 14 - Ayllón

The village of Ayllón has a little more action if you are lucky enough to be there on market day. It is a lot of fun! The local hotel has a good dining room where we ate cochinillo (roast suckling pig). Tour the neighboring towns for a rural life-experience of yesteryear.

Day 15 - Maderuelo to El Burgo de Osma

Along the way from Maderuelo to El Burgo de Osma, drive up or climb around the windswept ruins of the imposing castle of San Estéban de Gormáz . Arrive in El Burgo de Osma and stay at II Hotel Virrey located on the Plaza Mayor of this ancient city of Castilla. The windows overlook the town square which is full of life. A perfect location if you are there during one of the ferias or Semana Santa.

Day 16 - Peñafiel

In Segovia, don't miss the Alcázar of Segovia, a spectacular castle – some say it is the prototype for Disneyland. In the center of town you can enjoy roasted suckling pig or lamb in the shadow of a massive Roman aqueduct which cuts through the center of the city. After lunch, drive to Coca where there is one of the most intact castles in Spain. A word to the wise: the castle is windy and the guide loves to talk. Therefore, prepare yourself for an hour visit. If you are in a hurry be sure not to sign up to his leisurely, although informative, tour.

Day 17 - Avila

Drive to Avila: a sublime medieval city surrounded by walls. Tour the classic Basílica de San Vicente (a Romanesque church outside of the city walls) and the church the of San Pedro on Plaza de Santa Teresa de Avila. Stay at Palacio de los Velada. Without question this is the best hotel in which we stayed. It has a great ambiance, attentive service. It is located next to the cathedral and provides parking.

Day 18 - Avila to Toledo

Stroll the Zocodovar plaza in Toledo and visit the cathedral, especially noting the raridos behind the altar, and the hand carved choir stalls. Do not miss the Sacristy which contains over a dozen paintings by El Greco, as well as those by Zuberán. Stay at Hostal del Cardinal Toledo. Former residence of medieval cardinals and convenient located by the walls of the city. Beautiful rooms, modest price.

Day 19 - Toledo to Airport Hotel

Visit Hospital Santa Cruz Museum, a few stairs down from the Zocodovar main plaza. It has an tasteful collection of Spanish art through the centuries including the embroidered victory banner of the Battle of Lepanto. Everything is beautifully presented.

Then proceed to the Church of Santo Tomé which contains El Greco’s masterwork Burial of Count Orgáz. Try to visit it before the tourists flock in so you can have a little time to enjoy this world famous painting. On the streets of today’s Toledo you will recognize the expressive faces that El Greco painted centuries ago.

Drive to Barajas Airport (Madrid) and return the car. Stay overnight at Melia Barajas Airport Hotel – efficient and well run. It has service to and from the airport. We find it the perfect site to get our travel act together before heading home. Their fresh squeezed orange juice is a joy!

Day 20 - Leave Madrid

This area of Spain contains an amazing treasury of art and architecture, some of which stretches back over a thousand years. It has been relatively untouched because the areas of interest are largely valleys nestled in the foothills of the rugged Pyrenees. The roads are winding and difficult to navigate in the winter contributing to a place minimally touched by modern life. Romanesque architecture reigns with its solidity and Pythagorean harmony. Toward the end of this itinerary I hope you will experience the culmination of this spirituality in the twelfth century monastery of Sant Joan de les Abadessas and its Descent from the Cross wooden sculpture. Finally, you will visit Vic and be able to feast your eyes on the sculptures in the newly opened Episcopal Museum.

Day 1 - Arrival at Barcelona Airport

Fly directly to Girona and rent a car. Alternatively, you can rent a car at the Barcelona Airport and drive 2 hours to Girona, or take the train from Barcelona. The medieval section features two important sites: First climb the broad dramatic stairway to the cathedral, and the Tapestry of Creation. It is a large 11th century wool and linen panel of needlework depicting Christian creation myths. The other important site is the fascinating Sephardic Museum and Library in the Jewish Quarter. Then, drive to the Parador Aiguablava and enjoy the surf crashing against the cliffs, 22 miles east of Girona.

Day 2 - Romanyá de la Selva and Madremanya

Drive to Romanyá de la Selva to visit the church of Sant Martí de Romanyà and Cova d’en Daina, a granite dolmen large built between 1700 and 2200 B.C. Then, explore the medieval village of Madremanya. Return to Aiguablava Parador via pottery center of La Bisbal de Empordá and the gourmet olive oil finca of Can Solivera. There you will be greeted by our dear friend Hans de Roos, who will introduce you to his Can Solivera Wild Olive Oil used by the chefs at Michelin +++ restaurant Can Roca in Girona. His encyclopedic knowledge of the world of olive oil is dizzying.

Day 3 - d’El Pl’a de l’Estany Region

The next morning, visit the Castell de Rabós del Terri and the Iglesia de San Estéban in Cornellá del Terri. In San Vicente de Camós, you will find the beautiful 12th century church of Santa Magdelena de Noves. Proceed to Banyoles to see the Monasterio de San Estéban established by the Benedictines in 812 AD, built upon the remains of a late Roman church. Stay in Besalú which features arcaded streets and squares and also a restored mikveh, a ritual Jewish bath dating from the eleventh or twelfth century. There are also remains of a medieval synagogue, located in the lower town near the river at the Hotel Three Arcs.

Day 4 - Drive to Camprodón

Along the remote mountain byway you will encounter the interesting town of Tortellá where for centuries the local craftsmen have made wooden cutlery out of boxwood that is gathered in the foothills. The grain of the boxwood is even smoother than orange or olive woods. Ask around town where they are being carved.

In Montagut i Oix, you can experience a mountain town from the Middle Ages including the XI century Iglesia de San Lorenço. In Camprodón you will see a 12th century stone bridge spanning the river Ter. Be sure to take time to tour the Monasterio de Santa Maria. Stay at the Hotel Can Roc in Camprodón.

Day 5 - Beget, San Joan de las Abedesas and Ripoll

The Iglesia de San Cristófol in Beget is a national heritage site built in the tenth century is an example of pre-Pyrenean art in its purest form. The road to Beget is not difficult to drive, although the paved road is narrow. The large 12th century polychrome Majesty of Beget is considered as one of the most beautiful Romanesque carvings preserved today in Catalunya. Lost in the middle of the mountain between two streams, the entire town is an architectural monument worthy of visit. It is beautifully restored.

Then, drive to the Monasterio and Iglesia de Sant Joan de las Abadeses which captures the essence of Catalán/Benedictine spirituality in the Pyrenees, if not in all of Spain. The monastery was founded in 887 AD and contains the deeply moving sculpture of the Descent from the Cross, carved in 1250. It is considered one of the greatest examples of the Romanesque/Catalan. The altarpiece is also known by the name of the Most Holy Mystery because in 1426 some remains of consecrated hosts were found incorruptible in a reliquary hidden inside the head of Christ.

Finally, visit Ripoll and spend the night in the simple La Trobadora hotel situated close to the beautifully preserved Monasterio de Santa María de Ripoll – built in 880A.D.

Day 6 - Vic and Environs

Drive directly to the beautifully restored Museo Episcopal in Vic, where you will see medieval polychromes. There are many galleries full of Romanesque religious statuary available nowhere else in the world. It is the summary of what you have seen on this trip. Then, visit Iglesia de San Feliu de Savassona, considered one of the few monuments which exemplify how churches were built during the period of repopulation, after the Moors were defeated. Relax at the Parador Vic located on a serene lake outside of town.

Day 7 - Drive to Barcelona Airport Hotel XXXX

A little over an hour’s drive and you will be at the Barcelona – Prat Airport.

This is an itinerary I designed for a couple who wanted to get immersed in the heart of Spain while avoiding the usual tourist destinations. This was a little over two weeks, which I think is the minimum to do Spain justice. Even with that, we only concentrated on perhaps one third of the country. Bear in mind that there are 17 autonomous regions with their own distinct styles and sometimes languages. So it is essential to linger here and there, then come back again another day.

Day 1 - Arrival Madrid

Rent a car and drive to Santiago de Compostela. Stay at the San Francisco Hotel Monumento.

Day 2 - Santiago de Compostela

Tour the city of Santiago de Compostela, beginning with the Cathedral where pilgrims flock from all over the world. If you stand in the plaza facing the cathedral you will see on your left, a hotel built by Ferdinand and Isabel. Note the stone arcaded streets. Undoubted you will encounter some students from the University of Santiago. The school of medicine as well as the school of music are prominent.

Day 3 - Lugo

The walled city of Lugo is a remarkable place where you can walk around the stone battlements. Take time to visit the Municipal Market where you will find fresh seafood and bowers of fresh greens and vegetables and loaves of Pan de Gallego – Galician bread with its crunchy crust and a glutinous interior filled with holes. The city is famous for its Tetilla cheese.

Day 4 - Depart Santiago de Compostela and Drive to Zamora

Drive to Zamora (4 hours from Santiago de Compostela). Through gorgeous mountains and meadows is the Zamora old Roman fortress: it was held by Christians of Zamora. It was also where evil Queen Urraca lived – launched an army against her brothers. The Semana Santa (Holy Week celebration) is famous throughout Spain for its serious piety. It is a home of 27 Romanesque churches.

The neighboring town of Toro has an exquisite Romanesque cathedral. It is also famous for its wine. Stay at Parador de Zamora, a lovely 15th century Renaissance Palace.

Day 5 - Ciudad Rodrigo to Cácares

On the next day, drive from Zamora to Cáceres via Ciudad Rodrigo. It will take you around 4 hours. Stay at Parador de Caceres – Torreorgáz Palace, a 14th century palace, which was once Moorish.

Ciudad Rodrigo is one of my favorite cities reflecting rural ambiance. Good chorizo, sausages and it has warm and cordial people. Its history stretches back to pre-Roman times. The Parador in Ciudad Rodrigo is a restored Roman fortress. From its windows you can see a Roman bridge whose road leads to Portugal.

Drive 2 hours to Cácares. The modern city is dominated by the University, but within the medieval walls is a magnificent fortified city with large, old stone houses. Cácares is famous for its Jamón Ibérico, the rare ham from black-hoofed pigs. You might see some of the free range animals as you drive through the Dehesa – the pasture land. A great place to have dinner is El Fagón de Eustaquio on Plaza San Juan. Their jamón Ibérico raised by Pedro Lancho is among the best in the world.

Day 6 - Guadalupe and the Conquistadores

Visit Guadalupe, a charming town in the mountains – Ferdinand and Isabella’s favorite place. The cathedral contains the 12th century statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Neustria Señora de Guadalupe). The cathedral itself is an example of the fusion of Moorish and Christian architecture. The Plaza Mayor of the little village is charming. Then, drive Trujillo: a classic town of Extremadura. Below the ruins of a castle is the dramatic plaza where is the statue of Francisco Pizarro. He and his brothers together conquered Peru.

Day 7 - Córdoba and Carmona

Proceed to Carmona, via Córdoba where you can visit La Mezquita/Catedral- one of the greatest mosques in the world. Surprisingly within the mosque you will also find a full scale cathedral! The architecture is such that many people of all faiths sense a profound spirituality. So, your visit should be unhurried. The Alcázar is another great place to see. It is a palace built over a Moorish palace with formal gardens. From its tower you can see all of Córdoba.

Near the Mezquita/Catedral are many shops including great Cordovan leather at famous Meryan store, tucked in a side alley. Some people like to visit Medina Azahara, which is a fascinating archeological project seeking to restore a Moorish palace outside the city. Much of the funding is coming from Saudi Arabia and the Gulf States.

On the way to Carmona, you might drop by the Almodóvar Castle. As you approach Carmona you will see a dramatic city high on a hill. It was a Roman stronghold of Hispania Baetica. The city was made even more impregnable during the long occupation of the Moors, who erected walls around it, and built fountains and palaces within. In 1247, Ferdinand III of Castile captured the town. Stay at Casa de Carmona, a marvelous 16th century villa in the center of town. You might want to visit the Parador which is on the site of a fortress built by Pedro the Cruel. The vistas are breathtaking!

Day 8 - Sevilla and the Sherry Cities

Depart from Carmona and drive through Sevilla and Jerez de la Frontera and then on to El Puerto de Santa María. On the way, in Seville, visit the stunning cathedral Catedral de Santa María de la Sede, where Christopher Columbus is buried. Park in the underground garage near the cathedral. All gold from New World came though Seville. Finally, visit the Museo de Bellas Artes, one of Spain’s best art museums. Stay in El Puerto de Santa María at Los Jandalos Vista Hermosa – do not confuse it with Los Jandalos Hotel Santa María/Puerto de Santa María.

Day 9 - El Puerto de Santa María

Visit the sherry Bodegas at Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. I especially like the boutique Bodegas Gutiérrez-Colosía in El Puerto de Santa María and Pedro Romero in Sanlúcar de Barrameda when you visit the Gutiérrez-Colosía bodega, which is on the El Puerto waterfront, ask for Carmen. She and her husband Juan Carlos represent the best of Andalucía, and you will receive a warm welcome.

Pedro Romero in Sanlúcar de Barrameda has an unique bodega dedicated to some of the finest sherry vinegars. It is worth of visit. Sanlúcar de Barrameda has a gorgeous plaza where you can while away many hours under the Bougainvillea and palms feasting on Langostinos and Manzanilla wine. There are several excellent restaurants situated along the banks of the Guadalquivir River. I can’t think of a finer place to enjoy amazingly fresh seafood. Then take boat to Coto Doñana, the stopping place for hundreds of migrating birds from Africa. Undoubtedly you will see some flamingos feasting on shrimp.

Then, return to Los Jandalos Vista Hermosa and enjoy El Puerto de Santa María. It is a lively port and vacation spot at the mouth of Guadalete River which feeds into the bay of Cádiz. I lived here for many years with my family.

Day 10 - Cádiz

Take the ferry from the port of El Puerto de Santa María to visit Cádiz. The hydrofoil takes 20 min. to old Cádiz. It is an ancient city founded by the Phoenicians 3 thousand years ago. You walk across the peninsula in 15 minutes. It is a great place to wander, with good restaurants. For a treat we dine at the classic El Faro Restaurant. Don’t forget to visit the public market where you will see an amazing array of creatures from the sea. Some of them you have not even imagined. Underground parking is available near the cathedral.

Day 11 - Priego de Córdoba

Drive to Priego de Córdoba via Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, and Antequera. It is approximately a four hour drive via Arcos. First is Arcos de la Frontera: a dramatic white city perched on the top of very high bluff, with very narrow streets and great vistas. Next, drive to Ronda, which is a spectacular town built around a mountain gorge According to tradition t is known as the birthplace of the corrida –bull fight. The handsome bull ring includes quite an informative museum concerning the history and heroes of the Ring. The vast plaza is a great place to people-watch.

Next, go to Antequera, known as “the heart of Andalusia” (el corazón de Andalucía) because of its central location among the provinces of Málaga, Granada, Córdoba, and Sevilla. It is noted for two large Bronze Age dolmens. Drive up to the center of the city at the plaza mayor and stop to gather the essential flavor of this ancient city.

Finally, go to Priego de Córdoba, a dramatic town on the top of a hill. It is surrounded by olive trees as far as the eye can see. At the foot of the mountain you can find Fermín Rodriguez maker of Señorio de Vizcántar, the most popular olive oil within La Tienda community. Fermín is an affable man, and a good friend, who happily will tell you all you ever need to know about the production of extra virgin olive oil. Stay at the small hotel in Priego de Córdoba – La Paloma – in Moorish quarter with Arab baths.

Day 12 - Almagro

Depart from Priego de Cordoba via Alcala la Real. In 973 AD the caliph Al-Hakam II built a series of battlements in order to defend against Viking and Norman invaders. Twelve of the 15 original towers remain. Around the year 1000 La Mota, the main tower, became a true fortress, the mainstay of the Al-Andalus defense against the Christian Reconquista. From here they launched raids across the frontier against Castilla. You can drive up the hill into the bowels of the castle where archeological digs are underway. The project is is described in a video presentation in the church. It is a castle to explore. Lunch as the Parador precariously perched on a cliff next to Jaen, the olive capitol of Spain Drive through the windmill country to stay at the Parador de Almagro, a 16th century Franciscan Convent which is amazingly tranquil!

Day 13 - Toledo

Depart Almagro for Toledo. Toledo is the soul of Spain in successive eras it was the seat of Visigoth, Muslim, and Christian monarchs until Felipe II moved the government to Madrid in the 17th Century. Muslim, Christians and Jews lived together there for hundreds of years. The Sephardic academy for translation was world famous. It was there that hundreds of classical Greek philosophy and Arabic science were translated into Castilian Spanish. The whole city is a living active museum. I especially like the beautifully execute museum located in the Hospital de Santa Cruz. It has many El Greco paintings and the spectacular battle banner from the Battle of Lepanto where the Christians finally defeated the Ottoman Turks in an epic naval engagement.

The cathedral has an awe-inspiring gilded hand carved altar piece. Across form it is intricately carved choir stalls. Do not miss the Sacristy in the cathedral. Here is a succession of paintings of the twelve apostles, with all the emotional and spiritual impact that only El Greco can inspire. His Burial of the Count Orgáz can be viewed in the small Santo Tomé nearby. Visit also the Plaza Santo Domingo El Antiguo El Alcazar – Roman/Moorish fortress converted to palace.

Continue your tour, visiting Santa Maria La Blanca – 12th century synagogue and El Transito – splendid 14th century synagogue designed by Medéjar Muslim architects. Finally, see San Juan de los Reyes, a grand Gothic monastery. Stay at Hostal de Cardenal, the 18th century residence of cardinals. Tastefully decorated, modestly priced. The dining room there is excellent.

Day 14 - Depart Toledo

Depart from Toledo to Madrid Airport — an easy drive of less than 90 minutes.

An old friend of mine told me that a cruise he was taking with some family and friends ended in Barcelona. “If I had ten days more and wanted to show them the Spain I love, where do you suggest we go?” This is what I suggested, and I have included quotes from him after he returned home to Texas.

Day 1 - Barcelona

To start, rent a car at the Barcelona Airport, the roads are excellent and a diesel car helps defray the cost of fuel. You will turn the vehicle in at the Barajas Airport in Madrid. Drive one hour north to the medieval city of Vic pausing at the exquisite Episcopal museum of medieval polychrome.
Episcopal Museum of Vic.

From there, head north into the Pyrenees stopping at Solsona, a charming old village “Our meal there was quite memorable in one of the quieter plazas we visited where the town’s water well was located under an impressive chapel.”

Next drive to the 9th Century monastery Santa María de Ripoll with a World Heritage designated 12th Century cloister. Next visit the exquisite monastery of Sant Joan de Abadesses, consecrated in 887 AD with its dramatic sculpture Descent from the Cross – the ensemble is considered by some as the ultimate expression of Romanesque art in Spain.

Then wend your way to the south west toward Cardona where you will stay at the dramatic Parador Duque de Cardona, a 9th Century fortress, built to protect the largest deposit of salt in Europe. It is located on the top of a hill overlooking Cardona. Within the fortress is pure Cistercian architecture embodied in the 11th Century Iglesia de San Vicente de Cardona, as well as the two thousand year old Minyona Tower.

Day 2 - Olite
Take a long drive across Catalonia to Aragón, your destination being the well preserved medieval town of Olite. Stay at the parador Palacio Real de Olite built during the 13th and 14th Century; at one time it was one of the headquarters of the Court of the Kingdom of Navarre. “The parador is right in the middle of the town so that in the summer and fall you will be with kids and adults out strolling and talking until after midnight. The food is good there.”

Don’t miss the oldest church in town: Iglesia de San Pedro, which combines two architectural styles: Romanesque and Baroque. Within the town is also the original 14th Century Gothic tower (Alta Torre) and the 15th Century Gothic Iglesia de Santa María de la Real.

Then, visit the ruins of the Capilla de San Jorge (chapel of St. George) and climb around the battlements.

Day 3 - Hondarribia

The next morning, head north to the coast of the Cantabrian Sea, traveling along the rugged coast through glamorous San Sebastian to Hondarribia, the classic Basque village adjoining the border of France. The old part of the town has intact medieval walls. Take time to visit the Palacio de Zuloaga (where the historic archives and the town library are housed) and the Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Señora de Asunción y del Manzano. I found the walk around the small craft harbor very appealing.

“We were in Hondarribia for Dia de San Pedro (June 29th). The parador there is also on a main plaza and we were awoken in the morning by the pealing of church bells and the firing of canons. A large group of fisherman in uniform carrying 10 foot oars then processed from the sea into the church next to the parador. There were snare drums and oboe like instruments accompanying their songs. The church was packed with well-dressed people of all ages and the organ and choir were wonderful accompaniments to the Basque language mass of St Peter, patron of fisherman.

“Later that day, we went to San Sebastian which was celebrating a festival involving folk musicians and large (10-12 foot) paper maché puppets marching and dancing through the old streets of the town. I asked several people about the occasion, and no one really knew what exactly was going on, though it appeared pretty well organized. People said the puppets represented traditional villagers from the small towns in the Basque country. Younger kids were wearing large paper maché masked and hitting people with balloons. It was wonderful fun and my boys just loved it – it like we were in a movie.“

Stay at the Parador Castillo de Carlos V, a 10th Century castle where Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (Charles I of Spain) issued many of his major reforms.

Day 4 - Santillana del Mar

Drive west along the Catabrian coast with your destination being the historical village of Santillana del Mar, a beautiful village that developed around the medieval Church La Collegiata de Santa Juliana. It was built by a community of monks as an expansion of an old monastery, whose remains still can be seen. After visiting the Collegiata, take time to see the Palacio de Velarde (Las Arenas), a great example of Renaissance architecture.

“Later that day, we were in Santillana Del Mar… where they were celebrating Santa Juliana Day with a big carnival that we attended in the park close to the parador. We were out way past midnight enjoying the scene.”

Proceed to Cangas de Onís (2 hours from Santillana del Mar) and stay at Parador Monasterio de San Pedro de Villanueva: an amazing 12th century stone structure located by a running brook where the sportsmen come to try their luck. There is a new section of rooms which are fine in every way; but if you want to treat yourself, ask for one of the suites located inside the old monastery. They are beautifully appointed and it is quite a treat to fall asleep hearing a bubbling brook outside your window.

Day 5 - Cangas de Onís and Environs

On the next day, visit the nearby shrine of Covadonga, one of the most sacred places in Spain. Tradition says that it was here that the Christians decisively defeated the Arabs for the first time, signalling the beginning of the Reconquista – a 700 year campaign to rid the peninsula of the Moors. The Asturian mountain warriors were under the leadership of the fabled Don Pelayo.

Then drive near the shore to Villaviciosa and visit Salvador de Valdediós popularly called “El Conventín”, consecrated in 893 AD. It is the last great work of the Asturian architecture and marked the evolution to Mozarabic and then Romanesque architecture. Well worth the visit.

After finishing our visit to the church and the adjoining monastery we walked over to a tiny roadside restaurant where we were encountered the world’s most gigantic tortilla española. It could have easily served 10 people. When I asked for a smaller version, the cook shook his head and told me this was the only size he knew how to make! But the price was right, so we shared the tortilla with a Spanish family at the next table! You might like to try it. Also in the town of Villaviciosa you will find the Iglesia de Santa María de Oliva, built after 1270 AD. On the south portal you can see unusual hunting scenes carved on some of the capitals.

Return to Parador Monasterio de San Pedro de Villanueva.

Day 6 - The Amazing Sierra de Riaña Gorge Route to León

Drive from Cangas de Onís to León for about 21/2 hours via the breathtaking route N-625 – Sierra de Riaña gorge. On the way, in Gradefes, take time to see the sublime (and often overlooked) Convent/Church Santa María la Real. It is on a side road leading to León via San Miguel de Escalada, a remarkable structure built by Mozarabic craftsmen who fled the Moorish kingdoms to the south. It is another World Heritage site that is enjoyable to explore.

Stay at the Hotel Real Collegiata San Isidoro in the heart of Gothic León. But be forewarned – it is a puzzle to locate, since some of the streets are reserved for pedestrians only. We ended up calling the front desk and he guided us to the free parking by the hotel. The structure used to be a retreat house so the accommodations are suitable, although not sumptuous.

Day 7 - León

In León, the Cathedral of Santa María de León, is a classic of simplicity. The Gothic structure is almost entirely enclosed in stained glass. On a sunny day it is dazzling to stand inside the church surrounded by such beauty! Adjacent to your hotel is the Basilica of San Isidoro located on the site of an ancient Roman temple. Within it is the Royal Pantheon of the kings of León. It is one of the finest examples of surviving Romanesque murals in Castilla-León. The 12th Century painted murals are in an exceptional state of preservation and consist of an ensemble of New Testament subjects along with scenes of contemporary rural life. The accompanying columns are crowned with rare Visigoth capitals. Return to Hotel Real Collegiata San Isidoro.

Day 8 - Madrid

Drive to Madrid via Avila: an amazing medieval city surrounded by walls. Tour the classic Basílica de San Vicente (a Romanesque church outside of the city walls) and the church the of San Pedro on Plaza de Santa Teresa de Avila. If you have time in Madrid visit the Museo del Prado, with its unparalleled collection of Velázquez, El Greco, Goya, Flemish art of the Dutch masters – including Rembrandt and Rogier van der Weiden. One of the great art museums in the world. A short walk from it is the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía: a 18th century hospital converted into a museum on the 90’s. It is devoted to contemporary and modern art, including Picasso’s Guernika.

Day 9 - Toledo

Proceed to Toledo. Stroll the Zocodovar plaza and visit the Church of Santo Tomé which contains El Greco’s masterwork Burial of Count Orgáz. Try to visit it early before the tourists flock in so you can have a little time to absorb this world famous painting. On the streets of today’s Toledo you will recognize the expressive faces that El Greco painted centuries ago.

Visit Hospital Santa Cruz Museum, a flight of stairs down from the Zocodovar main plaza. It has an tasteful collection of Spanish art through the centuries including the embroidered victory banner of the Battle of Lepanto. Everything is beautifully presented.

Continue your tour, visiting Santa Maria La Blanca – a 12th Century synagogue and El Transito – splendid 14th Century synagogue designed by Medéjar Muslim architects. Finally, see San Juan de los Reyes, a grand Gothic monastery where Ferdinand and Isabella were planning to be buried until the conquered Granada.

We always stay at Hostal del Cardenal, the 18th Century residence of cardinals. It is tastefully decorated, modestly priced, and conveniently located by the walls of the city. The dining room is excellent.

Day 10 - Drive from Toledo to Airport

Drive one hour and half to Barajas Airport (Madrid) and return the car.

“In all it was a wonderful trip and I can’t wait to go back. I will always try to stay in a Parador from now on. They are just perfect.”

(Thanks to author Paula Wolfert for this information.)

Clay pots are fragile - they inevitably do break - but proper curing will harden them to the point that they can be used with a flame-tamer over direct heat.

Soak the entire dish in water to cover at least two hours or overnight. Drain and wipe dry. Rub the unglazed bottom with a cut clove of garlic (we are not sure how the garlic works, but why argue with tradition?) Fill the dish with water to 1/2 inch below the rim. Place the dish on a flame-tamer over low heat and slowly bring the water to a boil.

Let the liquid boil down until only a little remains. Do not allow all the water to evaporate as this may cause your cazuelas to crack. Cool slowly and wash. Your cazuela is ready for use in the oven or on the stovetop. Always heat and cool gradually when cooking. Rapid changes in temperature can cause breakage. Use a heat diffuser on gas stovetops.

This technique has been used since the Middle Ages. It seasons the pot, kills bacteria and hardens the unglazed parts.

To clean, soak in soapy water and scrub with a soft brush to remove any hardened food.

If you have not used the cazuela for an extended period of time, you may need to re-cure it before use.

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On a recent visit to Sanlucar de Barrameda we sat outside the bustling Casa Balbino, one of Spain's best tapas restaurants. Under the palms and orange trees, we feasted on amazingly fresh seafood - acedias, boquerones fritos and tortillitas de camerones, fried in the style of Andalucía. And to drink, we enjoyed one of the great wines of the world, Manzanilla sherry. Crisp, dry and refreshing, it is the perfect partner for fresh seafood and tapas. The ancient bodegas where Manzanilla is made are only blocks away, with their windows open to the sea breezes of the Atlantic that lend the wine its briny freshness.

Sherry is a misunderstood masterpiece. Really a family of wines, each type takes years to produce under the watchful eyes of winemasters who have learned the secrets of sherry from their fathers and grandfathers before them. They can only be produced in a triangle between the towns of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, El Puerto de Santa María and Jerez (from which the name 'sherry' comes), and almost all of the grapes are grown in the area between these ancient cities.

Unfortunately in the last several decades, some unscrupulous producers began flooding the market with cheap, sweet sherry. Sherry has been unfairly labeled as a cloying, sweet wine enjoyed by grannies and perhaps as a cooking wine used only rarely. The reality is far different, a dynamic collection of complex wines that can be enjoyed with a meal or savored by themselves. Over the last decade, wine critics of all stripes have been calling attention to this hidden jewel of the wine world.

The secret is in the aging process, called "criadera and solera." Fresh white wine from palomino grapes is kept in huge oak barrels stacked three high. The wine is fortified with a small amount of wine spirits to keep it from turning to vinegar, and as it ages a layer of yeast separates the wine from the air and protects it from oxidation. Over years, part of the younger wine is transferred to the barrels below, mixing with the more mature wine from previous years. Finally the finished wine is bottled from the bottom, oldest mixture. These barrels are stored in massive stone bodegas that keep the temperature and humidity at ideal conditions.

The result is called 'Fino' (or 'Manzanilla' in Sanlúcar) and is a clear white wine that is bone-dry. It is served well chilled and is easily the most refreshing wine we have ever tried. Spaniards usually serve this with olives, fresh seafood or as a palate cleanser before a meal.

'Amontillado' is the big brother of Fino, still quite dry but with a warm tan color and a hint of caramel flavor. To achieve this more complex, nuanced wine, Fino is reintroduced to the solera aging process, but is allowed to be in contact with oxygen from the air. This oxidation and another year of aging in ancient barrels create a delightful wine that can be enjoyed with almonds, cheeses or dried fruit.

'Oloroso' is a darker, smoother sherry with a nutty, caramel flavor. This complex wine is aged in contact with the air from the start, and can be aged for years or even decades. It is usually served with roasted meats or fine cheeses.

And finally come the sweet sherries, the finest of which bear very little resemblance to the cheap varieties which have caused so much damage to sherry's reputation. Pedro Ximénez is made from grapes of that name which are dried in the sun before being pressed. Legend has it that Pedro Ximénez was introduced to Spain from Germany by a soldier called Pedro Ximénez (or Peter Siemens - Pedro Ximen). It is also aged in the solera process. This dark, intense sherry is usually served after a good meal, its sweet raisiny flavor providing the perfect finish.

Moscatel is the other great sweet sherry. From bright green grapes with a higher sugar content, it is a silky smooth white wine with flavors of melon and orange blossom. It is perfect as an accompaniment to fruit or dessert.

Finally there is the category of cream sherries, which are simply a mix of Oloroso or Amontillado with one of the sweet sherries. The people of the sherry region will often make their own mixes at home, blending their favorite dry sherry with a small amount of sweet Moscatel or Pedro Ximenez.

Of course, as with any wine, the true measure of a sherry's quality depends on the bodega. And we are pleased to see the traditions of sherry developing. For decades the big bodegas with the powerful brands would buy sherry wholesale and blend them under their own labels. Recently some small bodegas have started changing the focus. Our friends Juan Carlos and Carmen Colosia of Bodegas Colosia in El Puerto recognized years ago that the future of sherry is in top quality, small production wines supervised by their family. Their small bodega, built in 1838, sits on the Guadalete river, looking over the bay of Cádiz. Here they carefully manage the criadera and solera process to create wines that are recognized as among the best sherries in the world.

The best sherry is created by a caring winemaster, who buys the best young wine, and using skills passed down over generations, forms it into a complex and special sherry. The location of the bodega and the quality of the casks are very important, but it is the people who shepherd this wine that make the difference between a good and a great sherry.

Surprisingly, given the complex and costly aging process, most good sherry sells for less than $20 a bottle, though a long aged top quality sherry can command prices well over $100. We encourage you to introduce your palate to one of these great wines. Versatile, complex and full of surprises, you may find a new favorite in the sherries of Spain.

When we climbed into a car in the beautiful Basque beach town of Zarauz for the journey to see the Txakoli harvest, we expected to get at least a bit tired of the ride. But barely had we buckled up when we were pulling into the vineyard where Arregi Getariako Txakolina is produced. We were so close to the sea that, on the way, we saw three surfers carrying their boards through the fields toward the famous surf of Zarauz.

Txakoli Getariako grapes are grown in a small region, on hills facing the sea. They are grown on trellises to allow air to circulate around the grapes, keeping them fresh in this moist climate. We watched as the harvester brought in trays of plump, bright green grapes and poured them into the press. After pressing, Txakoli is fermented and bottled in a matter of weeks. The result is a very fresh, young wine with a high acidity.

Later, in the tasting room, the owners showed us how to pour Txakoli. As with Asturian sidra, the bottle is held high and poured into the glass, releasing a spray of tiny bubbles - the refreshing light effervescence that makes Txakoli special. The well chilled wine had a green apple tartness and a bold minerality. As we learned, small amounts should be poured and enjoyed quickly to capture the bubbly, fresh flavor.

Because so few vineyards make Txakoli, and it is so new to the market, this wine is a rarity in the U.S. We like to serve a chilled bottle with local seafood, such as fresh oysters or seared scallops, and it is fun to introduce our guests to an unusual wine that speaks of a unique and beautiful part of Spain.