One of the best times to visit Spain is in the autumn. The tour buses are long gone, Spaniards are back at work and there is a certain air of expectancy – especially in the countryside. For this is the time of the harvest, when the fruit of a summer of labor is gathered and celebrated. Of course we have our own harvest festival on Thanksgiving Day in the United States, with its turkey and pumpkins and apple pie. But for the Spanish farmer or vintner it is not just a day, it is a whole season.

Spain is the world’s largest producer of wine – ahead of even France and Italy. So a great deal of attention is focused on gathering the grapes from the vines and beginning the process of making wine. Much of the wine is produced by large wineries, but there are also thousands of families across Spain that make wine in their neighborhood or homes each fall. It is a family event with a lot of excitement. This season and celebration of wine is called the Vendimia.

During my travels I have met many fascinating people. I last introduced you to Jorge Lancho, a young man who became a friend of our family. We met him while we were learning about the Ibérico pigs living on the dehesa in Western Spain. In that case we grew in knowledge of the jamón business. He and his father produce some of the finest Ibérico ham in Spain in their small family curing house, and they shared with us their expertise and friendship.

Another young man who has become a good friend is an extremely interesting young man from Galicia, the Celtic region just north of Portugal.

Pablo turns out to be a very bright and inquisitive person of many talents: a web-designing, motorcycle-touring, photography-loving martial arts master and a student of current events – but most of all he loves to combine photography with his love for his native Galicia.

When Pablo and I first made contact I was on the quest for the perfect bread, which allegedly is baked in the tiny town of Cea. As luck would have it, Pablo’s grandmother lived very close to this hamlet and Pablo, along with his girlfriend Marina, volunteered to guide us there the next time we came to Galicia. My wife Ruth and I took him up on his offer and we had the most fascinating time, which I wrote up in a previous essay - you can find it here.

Since then Pablo and I have been in weekly contact and he has sent along a remarkable collection of photos taken near his hometown in coastal Galicia, as well as his motorcycle trips with Marina.

Just a few weeks ago he set the most fascinating photo essay on his involvement with the Vendimia – grape harvest. I share it with you because this is the real down-to-earth description, not something you would find in National Geographic or on Wikipedia:

Pablo writes:

“I know you are a lover of Spanish traditions, and as you already know, there is another “hidden" Spain, which is far away from the topics that are widely known. I mean, for example northern Spain, which is more intimate with a colder climate, and without flamenco, bullfights, and other festive events of southern Spain. That is because the history of northern Spain is closely aligned with a strong Roman tradition, which became mixed with Celtic roots instead of the Arab ones that are predominant in Andalucía, for example.

Well. As you know, Galicia is a land of wines. It is a place for the famous big vineyards of Albariño, Ribeiro, and the famous wines associated especially with Galicia. It goes without saying that wine making is ingrained as a family matter. A lot of families from rural - and not so rural - areas, and independently of their main activity, have set aside part of their own terrain to be dedicated to vines, and the making of homemade wine. This usually becomes a big family event.

And even bigger! Because traditionally, often the neighbors helped one another with their grape wine harvests in the same way that is done with the corn and wheat harvest. In particular the annual "matanza" (the pig slaughter) might involve the whole village.

Well, a few days ago we were in Rosana's family house, helping with their grape harvest. I remembered that when I was a kid I did so at my grandparents’ house in Ourense. A funny time for a kid, working "hard" with adults, a lot of grapes eaten, usually stomach aches the day after, no worries about the totally dirty clothes, caused by stepping on the grapes in the "lagar" with your cousins.

Note: I don't know if you know what is a "lagar" is in Galicia. Not sure about the translation, maybe "winery"? It is an enclosed space, like a little pool where you drop the grapes to smash them by traditionally stepping in. This makes the juice to go out to begin fermentation process.

When I was kid, in my house there was a lagar, about 2.5m x 1.5m (and all the kids were waiting to be let in). It was the most fun in houses where the production area was very confined, or no space at all so that a press was used.”

Through our friendship Pablo has opened my eyes to yet another tradition of Spain, the kind of ritual that honors the bonds of family and community. I hope that you have a warm and nourishing time with your loved ones over Thanksgiving – both in the bountiful meal and in the strengthened relationships with family and friends.

Last week the people of Spain celebrated Dia de La Hispanidad, a national holiday commemorating Columbus’s arrival in the Americas, on the same date as our Columbus Day. It is a celebration of Spain’s connection to the international Hispanic community and a pivotal moment in the history of the world.

How easy it is to imagine timeless Spain where the local harvest traditions have been going on for thousands of years. But, of course, it is not the case. Radical changes occurred in 1492: not only the final triumph of the 700 year struggle with the Moors on the plains of Granada, but, most notably, Christopher Columbus's arrival in the Americas. The meeting of civilizations transformed the world - through trade, war and the intermingling of ancient cultures. It was a watershed for Spain and its cuisine: the introduction of new foods from the Americas heralded a revolution in how Spaniards farmed, cooked and enjoyed food.

Think a moment. Can you imagine a piping hot mug of thick chocolate a la taza without the chocolate? Chorizos without smoky Pimentón de La Vera paprika? Then there is tortilla Española with nary a potato! It is amazing to think about, but that is the way it was before Ferdinand and Isabella sent Christopher Columbus to the New World. Much of what we think of as Spanish gastronomy did not exist 600 years ago.

Ferdinand and Isabella sent Columbus in search of rare spices. Seasonings such as black pepper were so precious that the monarchs hoped his voyage would discover a new route to the Spice Islands. Why were spices so crucial? Remember they did not have side by side refrigerators providing an unlimited supply of ice cubes to tumble into their glasses of Coke. They had no refrigeration at all. Pepper, along with sea salt, was a priceless preservative for their meats.

When Columbus returned from the New World, he headed straight to the Royal Court, which at the time was encamped at the Real Monasterio de Guadalupe deep in the mountains of western Spain. (Fernando and Isabel had an itinerant court which was often on the move in order to reinforce relationships across various parts of their realm. Before Guadalupe they had been in Sevilla.) There in the Mudejar monastery, nestled in a mountain valley, he presented his patrons with chili peppers, among other treasures. The king and queen were delighted.

Without delay the local Franciscan brothers sowed the pepper seeds in the monastery gardens – less than a day's journey from where smoked paprika is made from smoked peppers today! Thanks to the horticultural interest of Columbus, from that time forward the people on both continents enjoyed food that was flavored and preserved by smoked paprika.

Many other culinary treasures that the first explorers brought back to Spain were far more lasting than silver and gold. They changed the way of life for all of Europe. The list of foodstuffs is amazing: vanilla, chocolate, tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, squash, corn, avocado, pineapples and peppers of all sorts. Where would Spanish cuisine be without them?

And the Spaniards introduced many of their own treasures to America. Can you imagine a time when there were no citrus fruits in California, Texas and Florida? Imagine the Wild West without horses? All of these were brought to the New World by the explorers and missionaries, along with wheat, rice, coffee, grapes and apples. Since Spaniards have always loved good food, Christopher Columbus made sure some Ibérico pigs were included on the first voyage. After all, how could a Spaniard properly dine without his pata negra ham?

We were surprised and delighted to learn that herds of pigs still live on certain barrier islands in Georgia, descended from Ibérico pigs left there by Spanish explorers. Still more amazing was the discovery that some of these pigs are now raised in Colonial Williamsburg, just miles from our retail store. In fact, today there are Virginia hams hanging in the smokehouse of the Governor’s Palace made from this unique pork!

When Columbus stepped ashore in the Bahamas 500 years ago, an explosion of change shook the world. As with all revolutions, there was much upheaval and loss. But there was also a marvelous new richness of culture, especially in the world of food. And the cuisine of Spain is a prime example, as it was transformed with a variety and richness as never before.

Our relationships with friends and colleagues in Spain are not only a personal pleasure, but part of how we try to run La Tienda. This year we asked our good friend Jorge Lancho to select the very finest hams for our Peregrino brand. Jorge is a maestro de jamón, a ham curing master, who has the experience to identify a great ham through appearance, aroma and texture. But we did not pull his name from an industry guide - he was a friend for over 10 years before we worked together. This is the story of how we came to collaborate after a decade of friendship.

Several years ago, I came across a little book named Pig Perfect, by Peter Kaminsky, concerning everything one might ever want to know about pigs, from the days of the pharaohs of Egypt to the type of pulled pork barbecue found in Wilson, North Carolina. Of course, prominent attention was paid to the ancient breed of Ibérico pigs of Spain and their idyllic life munching on acorns in the countryside. I was particularly interested in his description of a group of Spanish scientists at the University of Extremadura who had spent their careers learning all there was to know about the legendary Iberian animals and the exquisite Ibérico ham.

We at La Tienda wanted to know all about these pigs before we introduced the fabled Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, once international trade restrictions were lifted. With a sense of excitement, I told my sons Tim and Jonathan about what I had read, and proposed that the three of us make a trip to western Spain to see for ourselves. After all, these men were the ultimate experts in the raising of Ibérico pigs.

A quick contact was made, and the Spanish scientists were delighted to host us. We arrived in the environs of Cáceres, originally an ancient Roman outpost near the Portuguese border. We met our hosts at a local café close to a field where herds these pigs who were blissfully grazing. Dr. Antonio Gázquez, a veterinarian from the University of Extremadura, together with his friend Pedro Lancho, warmly welcomed us. After a sip of acorn liqueur, licor de Bellota, we piled into two Land Cruisers and headed for Pedro Lancho’s nearby finca or ranch.

Pedro was a highly respected civil engineer who inherited this acreage from his father. It is a beautiful piece of property located on the Dehesa – the remnant of the original oak forests of Europe. This is the ancient home of the Iberian pigs, cerdos Ibéricos. They are an ancient breed, whose ancestors have been strolling free in the Dehesa forest since the days of the cavemen.

After Pedro Lancho inherited this property, he made a radical career change: setting aside his successful career to devote his energy to raise Ibérico pigs, which in turn would produce superb Jamón Ibérico de Bellota.

He asked his son, Jorge, to join him in this new family enterprise. Jorge had just graduated from the University of Madrid with a Masters degree in Economics. The idea that he would be working with his dad in a family business was also appealing to him, as they began a quest to create the finest Jamón Ibérico de Bellota. Jorge knew his father as a very focused and intelligent man, and to some extent a perfectionist, so he had no doubt their mission would succeed.

In preparation for this venture, Pedro had become engrossed in Ibérico studies, learning from a faculty of veterinarians who knew more about this rare animal than anyone else in the world. He became close friends with his mentor, Dr. Antonio Gázquez, who enthusiastically encouraged Pedro and his son Jorge in this ambitious project. Father and son were inspired by the gifted and humble man who was first a scholar, then a gourmand, but most of all he was a gentleman - a humanitarian with a generous heart. I wrote about him several years ago in this essay.

This was the first time I had ever shared a sunny morning with a group of pigs, but I found them quite friendly animals, which freely interacted with us as we walked among them. Most of them chose to relax in the shade of the Holm oak trees that were close to a muddy waterhole.

In the autumn, these trees are laden with acorns (called bellotas in Spanish), which the pigs eat with abandon, sometimes gaining a kilo of weight per day! The jamones they produce are amazing - it literally melts in your mouth. More than half of their finely marbled fat is healthy mono-unsaturated, like olive oil, and melts at 70°F.

I could have lingered among the herd of pigs for a longer time. They are such fascinating, intelligent animals, and willing to relate to humans. One of them was a little fresh, and tried to nip one of us in the rump! Those of you who have lived in a rural area know exactly what I am talking about. (I understand wild boars are another story.)

After finishing our tour of the ranch, Pedro proudly showed us the modern curing facility that he had designed. While he was showing us many of the new features, my eyes were drawn to a very hard-working young man in a white coat, moving jamones. It was his son Jorge and it was there that I met him for the first time. Since then we have become fast friends.

By that time, it was mid-day and we joined our hosts, Pedro and Antonio, for a feast in a private dining room in the back of El Figon de Eustaquio in the medieval section of Cáceres. As many of you know, Spaniards traditionally eat expansive afternoon meals. (No quick sandwiches at the desk for them!) This one was a welcoming occasion and they provided us a gourmet feast, including Ajo Blanco soup, fresh local cheese, and most importantly, slices of the Lancho’s spectacular jamón. The hand cut slices glistened on the plate as the acorn flavored fat melted at room temperature!

Ruth and I returned to Cáceres a couple of years later and enjoyed a more intimate family meal with Jorge’s parents and his fiancée, Olga, who was a journalist with the national magazine La Razón. During their courtship, Jorge and Olga were torn between big city and small town life as they commuted back and forth to Madrid for almost seven years until 2005, when they chose to settle in Cáceres.

Over the years, the personal relationship with Jorge has grown. Ruth and I were particularly pleased when in 2010 Jorge and Olga drove several hours from Cáceres to the Parador at Carmona in order to introduce us to their first born, Guillermo, a robust and happy baby boy. Two years later they added to their family Diego, and then last year little Olga joined her two brothers!

Following our Carmona rendezvous, Jorge met us at one of our favorite towns: Ciudad Rodrigo situated on the frontier with Portugal. Together we explored Las Hurdes, a remote region of Spain deep in the Sierra de Gata Mountains, not far from the rustic town of La Alberca. Luis Bunuel made a famous movie in the 1930’s called Land Without Bread describing how civilization in this area had barely changed over the centuries.

The friendship between our families continued to grow last year when Jorge and Olga joined us for our Fiftieth Wedding Anniversary party in Carmona. Our friendship and the possibility of commercial opportunities became evident as the level of trust deepened between us.

All the while the artisan hams produced by the Lancho family company, called Encinar de Cabezón, were not allowed in the U.S. market. Certification by the USDA takes a significant investment, more than this small company could afford. Nevertheless, throughout our years of friendship we hoped to work together in some manner.

Finally, this year we found a way to work with our trusted friends. While we still can’t offer their excellent hams in the U.S., my son Tim recruited Jorge to use his experience as a Maestro de Jamón (ham master) to select the finest hams from another supplier to be used for our house Peregrino brand. We knew of no trusted expert in the industry who could take on the crucial task of differentiating the extraordinary jamones from the rest of those curing in the bodega.

For fifteen years Jorge has handled thousands of pieces of jamón, and knows the process from start to finish. Thanks to the friendship formed over many years between our two families, we have a premier selection of Jamón Ibérico de Bellota for our Peregrino brand.

The friendships we have built in Spain are rewarding and meaningful in their own right. But it is always satisfying when we can find a way to bring our trusted friends into the workings of La Tienda, which is our labor of love.

Tu amigo,
Don

Cádiz is a magical city founded in the mists of time. About 1100 BC, the Phoenicians (the Canaanites of the Bible) established it as a trading center – far from the shores of the eastern Mediterranean. Both geographically and culturally, it is as distant from Barcelona as Manhattan is to the Mississippi Delta.

The principal gate to the ancien barrio, the old city, is through the Arco de los Blanco, built around 1300 AD. Beyond the remnants of medieval battlements, the lively walled city remains intact. One of my great pleasures is merely to wander through her winding cobblestone streets adorned with beautiful little plazas such as the elegant Plaza de Mina located in the heart of the city.

Curiously to some, I also find it a treat to drop by the vast public market close to the Cathedral. I love to visit the abundant fruit stalls selling blood oranges, clementinas and other local fruits. Many of them are carefully stacked in the form of pyramids! Around the edge are stalls full of jamón and all kinds of sausages. Next to them are the local breads and cheeses.

Cádiz is located on a very narrow peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean, not far from the Straits of Gibraltar. It is the gateway to the Mediterranean Sea, and was subjected to continual naval raids over the years: pirates, privateers and especially the Royal Navy, Spain’s constant political rival.

In 1587, Sir Francis Drake, during one of the periodic Cádiz naval sieges, captured the Cádiz harbor and set fire to many Spanish ships in the armada preparing an invasion of England. A British landing party came upon the grape arbors near Jerez de la Frontera.

They were enthusiastic about the new type of wine and spirited away 2900 butts of sherry that was waiting on the docks of Cádiz. This new "sherry wine" was greeted with great enthusiasm. Shakespeare’s Falstaff did much to spread the reputation of the sherry, then known as sack: "If I had a thousand sons, the first humane principle I would teach them should be to forswear thin potions and to addict themselves to sack."

In fact, their newly discovered sherry was among the world’s oldest wines. The grape vines originated in ancient Phoenicia. The production of wine continued under the 300 year rule of the Carthaginians whose leader Hannibal used the city as a staging point for his invasion of Spain and Rome. The wine of Jerez and its environs spread throughout the Roman world. In 206 BC, there is reference to it as the wine from Ceret (Jerez). Those foraging troops had rediscovered an ancient wine tradition.

Merchants from England, Scotland and Ireland were quick to understand its commercial value. Many of these wine merchants moved from Great Britain to Andalucía and built thriving wine businesses. Even today bodegas located in the three sister cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María bear British names, such as Osborne and Terry. I have a young friend from one of the major sherry families named Gonzálo Osborne Mac-Crohan, yet he could not be more Spanish! Another friend of mine is María Arizón whose surname is a transliteration of "Harrison." Her ancestors were an Irish family who fled persecution by immigrating to Catholic Spain.

An amusing footnote: 200 years after Sir Francis Drake’s raid of Cádiz, sherry bodegas did a thriving business during the decisive Battle of Trafalgar. Showing no favoritism, they provisioned hundreds of barrels of sherry to the warships of the Royal Navy under Lord Nelson, and at the same time provided an even greater number of casks of sherry to the 33 warships of the combined French and Spanish fleets of Napoleon. To mark the occasion, Bodegas Hidalgo, founded in 1792, offers Wellington Palo Cortado and Napoleon Amontillado Sherries!

Our first experience with the world of sherry was when, as a young Navy couple with a growing family, we decided to live in downtown El Puerto de Santa Maria, one of the three sherry cities - the others being Jerez de a Frontera and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Our traditional house (complete with wrought iron barred windows facing the street and an internal patio with citrus trees) was located in the midst of a cluster of Osborne bodegas, which filled the neighborhood with the intoxicating aroma of sherry.

As many of you may recall, sherry is a distinct kind of white wine that is produced by a Solera process – which means that year after year, the new wine is introduced into a barrel of older wine, while part of that older wine is added to barrels of still older wine and so on. The goal is to produce a sherry wine that is consistent in flavor year after year. It is for this reason that sherry wine does not have a vintage date since within every cask are blended many vintages.

One unexpected discovery for us was the magnificent sherry vinegar of the region, a dry and complex vinegar unlike any other. It has transformed our everyday salads. No more dreary commercial bottles of dressings for us! We just take a small bottle (maybe an empty spice jar); add one part sherry vinegar and two parts of quality fragrant extra virgin olive oil. We might toss in herbs such as basil or garlic, and then with a couple of shakes, we have an effortless gourmet vinaigrette salad dressing. It is easy to do, try it!

We searched for the source of a sherry vinegar we particularly enjoyed and found it was made in a small family bodega in El Puerto located just three or four blocks from where we lived forty years earlier – right under our nose, as it were. On our way to catch the ferry to Cadiz, we must have walked by the Gutiérrez Colosía sherry bodega many times!

We introduced ourselves to the owners, Carmen and Juan Carlos, and found them extraordinarily cordial. As they proudly showed us around their bodega, they treated us as part of their family. They led us way back in the cavernous bodega to a room full of their finest Sherries. Over in the corner was a section with dusty barrels of their oldest vinegars. Aged in oak for decades, the reserve sherry vinegar was dry and complex, with notes of smokiness and roasted almonds. Another barrel contained a sweet and sour variation of sherry vinegar that moderates its robust flavor by adding a few drops of sweet Pedro Ximenez sherry wine. Their Gutiérrez Colosía sherry vinegars are among the finest vinegars we have ever tried.

The legacy of the Phoenician introduction of wine to Cádiz thousands of years ago has resonated throughout history, influencing cultures from the ancient Romans to the English and French empires of the renaissance. I am pleased that this tradition continues, and that the legacy of hundreds of generations can be experienced in the complex flavors of sherry wine and vinegar of the region.

Tu amigo,
Don

July 25th is the feast day of St. James – Santiago – the patron saint of Spain. According to tradition, his remains rest in the crypt of a cathedral in Galicia, a remote part of Spain. According to legend, St. James, the brother of Jesus, was martyred in the holy land, and his mourners placed his body in a small stone ship, which then set sail across the Mediterranean Sea.

Once the boat passed through Gibraltar and the Pillars of Hercules, the stone craft headed due north along the Atlantic coast until it reached a small port called Padrón in Galicia. (You may have enjoyed Padrón peppers, whose seeds were brought by Columbus from America to the local monastery there.)

Santiago’s body was discovered by shepherds who were guided by a star (Compostela means campus/star). News of this discovery spread across the realm like wildfire and energized Christians who were trying to repel the seemingly invincible advance of the Moors.

The story of Santiago became their inspiration. Some of the Christian warriors would see him riding out of the heavens on a white horse, to lead them into battle. He became the patron saint of Spain. St. James’ symbol is the seashell and we have chosen to take the seashell as La Tienda’s trademark. Our private label is called Peregrino, the word for pilgrim in Castilian Spanish.

Many older people wring their hands about the reality of their aging. Of course, there are inconveniences, and many aches and pains. However, the senior has a special gift: the ability to recall events earlier in life and to put them into a broader perspective. It is called wisdom.

For example, I find it enriching to look through the pictures my wife Ruth and I have taken over the past 50 years. With the help of my friend Elaine, I have entered over 3,000 of them in a Flickr account and arranged them by region, and have made them available to all. Many of the pictures revolve around our experience visiting the route of the pilgrims who have traveled the Camino de Santiago.

I find the most interesting category of pictures to be those that were taken in the 1960s before digital cameras were available. Do you remember threading your camera with film – only to run out after 24 or 36 clicks? Then there was the wait until the corner drugstore got a packet of your pictures from the regional processor. Slow as the process was, I must admit I enjoyed leisurely sharing my snapshots with friends.

I remember one late afternoon in the late Sixties, when my wife Ruth and I were first discovering the romance of Spain behind the wheel of our tiny Seat 600 sedan. Driving somewhere along the back roads of Andalucía, we stopped by the side of the road and for the first time my wife Ruth and I watched the process of harvesting olives.

The laborers, with members of the family, spread a tarpaulin under a somewhat gnarled olive tree and shook the branches gently so that only the ripe olives fell to the outstretched cloth. Then they gathered the fallen olives into baskets to bring to the mill. To think that this exact kind of task has been going on for hundreds of years within this very olive grove! The pictures of laboring in the olive groves could have been taken in 1920 or 1820 just as easily as 1965! It would not be much different.

It is part of a timeless evolution stretching back to antiquity. Some of the trees are hundreds of years old and have seen kingdoms rise and fall. The only difference between then and now is that a centrifuge extracts the oil from the fruit rather than being pressed between several esparto discs.

This aura of timelessness was particularly present as we drove along the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. For over 1000 years, pilgrims have followed this route across the breadth of Spain, some 400 miles. In medieval times, many of them came from all over Europe. Nowadays pilgrims come from all over the planet! Even St. Francis of Assisi has followed the pilgrimage route.

The Camino de Santiago still prospers today. It is traveled by many more people than it was 20 years ago when my son Jonathan traversed it with some other students. Some of you may have seen the movie The Way, where Martin Sheen reflected upon his experience of the Camino. The pilgrimage road made such a sufficient impression on my son that on their honeymoon, he and his bride Stacey retraced some of his steps together.

The Atlantic Coast is active, like coastal Maine, and the source of some of most extraordinary seafood in Spain. Some people say their experience of Galicia is similar to their wandering throughout Ireland, especially in the mist. There is a certain spiritual feeling you rarely will find anywhere else.

The first time my wife Ruth and I experienced this was when, many years ago, we were headed towards Santiago, and approached the forlorn, windswept mountain village of Cebreiro. Along the way we would encounter cordial people leading their oxen from a day’s labor in the rocky field. The animals had head coverings of rabbit pelts so that beasts of burden would be protected from the sun.

That day we spent in Cebreiro could have easily been 968 AD rather than 1968. The hamlet consists of a grouping of pallozas, or round stone houses, with a straw roof. The townspeople lived in these sorts of sod igloos, along with their chickens and goats. If I can find it, I will show you a picture of a jaunty rooster “ruling the roost.”

There was a very simple refugio, a rudimentary country inn, where we stayed overnight (I was young and foolish then. Now, I am not so sure I would risk a mattress filled with straw). Next to it was a pre-Romanesque church - the oldest one remaining fully intact on the Camino. The priest rings the church bells during the winter to guide the pilgrims through the mists. For many of the pilgrims, the mountain pass of Cebreiro was the last major hurdle before descending to the ocean and Santiago.

We also learned that within this stone church was the legendary Holy Grail. For safekeeping in the face of invading Arab forces that were sweeping across the coast of Africa, Christians passed the sacred Chalice, one to another, from the Holy Land until it ultimately rested safely in this remote corner of the world. To see it we entered the nave of the church and passed by the very large granite baptismal font until we came to the chalice displayed right by the altar.

One stormy day as the wind howled, and people of the village were huddled in their pallozas, the parish priest dutifully went to the church to celebrate daily mass. So the legendary story continues: the door of the church opened in the howling gale, and a faithful pilgrim stumbled inside. The skeptical priest thought to himself "Why in the world would anyone be so foolish as to brave the elements to come to my Mass? After all," he thought looking at the elements on the altar, “probably this is just bread and wine.”

As he raised the Host during the liturgy, the thin wheat wafer became flesh. When the priest looked into the chalice, he saw that the wine had turned into blood. The news of the miracle spread throughout the area and soon it was confirmed that this was the Holy Grail.

You know, if you are able to suspend your rational 21st century mind for a while, you also can enjoy these legends and myths which animated the minds of our earlier brothers: stone ships crossing the Mediterranean, the relics of Jesus’ brother discovered by shepherds in a field by night in a pasture in Galicia; olive oil being harvested on the same land that Roman soldiers trod; the age old Camino path walked upon by ancient pilgrims whose spirituality might be close to yours.

The cover of the latest Smithsonian magazine brazenly proclaims, “Future is here.” I take comfort in knowing that “Yesterday is here” as well, and it provides a mother lode of wisdom.

Legends have a life of their own, and I encourage you someday to go to Galicia in northwest Spain, just above Portugal. Quietly wander around from town to town. The people of Galicia are of Celtic stock such as those in Ireland and Scotland. They even play bagpipes!

Tu amigo,
Don

The authenticity of paella is gauged by the community it builds. What better way to enjoy time with your friends than to sit around the communal paella and share it together? Is that not what life is all about?

Paella originated in the countryside long ago. Farmhands made a fire in fields at lunchtime and simmered the local short grained rice in a flat pan. They added whatever edibles were at hand – snails might be added as well as artichokes and other local vegetables; or perhaps a stray chicken or a rabbit caught in the fields. Along the shore fishermen would embellish their paellas with fish and seafood.

As tourists from other parts of Spain vacationed on the Mediterranean coast in the summer, the dish spread throughout other regions of Spain. Variations have evolved to include locally available produce. In Sevilla and Cádiz they add big prawns and langostinos. Along the Costa del Sol, mussels, prawns, ñora peppers and lemons became favored ingredients.

Today paella has universal appeal with literally hundreds of regional variations. Other than a couple of key ingredients, it is the preparation that makes the difference. But do not be intimidated, if you use authentic ingredients to start with, you do not need to be a master chef to prepare something delightful for your friends and family. You will have fun experimenting - it can even be a common project, with everyone pitching in to prepare a perfect feast.

• Pay attention to your broth, this is the soul of the paella – make it rich and flavorful with fish or chicken stock, shrimp shells and seasoning.
• Use the correct strain of rice. It is the difference between passable and exquisite paella. Firm and absorbent rice is the watchword. Spaniards always use short-grained rice, such as Bomba or Calasparra – it absorbs lots of rich of broth with each grain remaining distinct. Do not substitute creamy arborio, sticky Asian short grain, fragile and aromatic basmati, or regular long grain American rice, which is not absorbent.
• Use real Spanish saffron. In harder times, Spaniards substituted colorante, a yellow artificial coloring with a turmeric base – but it is not the same thing. It will not have the deep aroma and flavor.
• The fire must be very hot to start with, the heat being continually reduced during cooking. Ideally it should be prepared on a wood or charcoal fire. You can improvise with what cooking surface you have available – a gas paella grill accomplishes much the same effect.

Remember, paella is a simple rice dish, and it is yours to prepare. If you use authentic ingredients, there is no such thing as failure – each one is unique.

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• Popular Paella Recipes

Imagine walking up the narrow cobblestone streets of an ancient Spanish village. As you reach the top of the hill, you see a medieval castle straight out of a fairy tale. Then it hits you – this is my castle – my hotel room is right there in the tower!

Spain boasts over 90 Parador hotels, many of them situated in restored castles, palaces and ancient monasteries. They are all tastefully appointed, and surprisingly affordable. I plan many of my trips around an itinerary of visiting these jewels of Spanish architecture. Many are conveniently close to major cities and tourist areas, but some of the most delightful are a bit off the beaten track.

The system of Paradores de Turismo was started by King Alfonso XIII to promote tourism in Spain, with the first Parador opening in Gredos, Ávila, in 1928. Virtually all of them are historic monuments tastefully adapted by the Department of Tourism to delight the leisurely traveler: handmade fabrics and local furnishings typical of the region. If you become an enthusiast of the Paradores, as we have, you become an Amigo de los Paradores and you will be given special consideration.

Inside the many Paradores we have visited over the years, we have found antiques, tapestries, paintings and carpets that reflect an attention to authentic detail in every aspect: linen, lace, silk and other natural materials. All the charm of the past is in perfect harmony with the comfort and quality of a fully modern hotel. My wife Ruth and I had our first experience in a Parador almost fifty years ago when, before there was an extensive tourism network, we were on our own, exploring the byways of Spain.

Perhaps the most amazing of all of Paradores is in the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela: the goal of pilgrims from Europe for the last thousand years. Queen Isabella, a devout Catholic, built a spectacular hospice for pilgrims. It sits across the square from the phenomenal 12th century cathedral, and the two edifices make up sides of the famous main square of Santiago, one of the most visited pilgrimage sites in the Christian world.

Also known as Hostal dos Reis Catolicos, the Parador building dates back to 1499, just seven years after Isabella had triumphed over the Moors in Granada, and had dispatched Columbus to the New World. The queen meant the site to be a place of refreshment and nurture for the thousands of pilgrims upon their arrival the holy city. Therefore, some people claim this Parador is the oldest hotel in Europe.

Ruth and I were amazed at the medieval interior of this beautiful building, especially the four courtyards named after the authors of the four Gospels: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. After settling into our room (which featured a canopied bed) we slipped out the front door to visit the towering Romanesque cathedral. Afterward we enjoyed mingling with the local population, which was made up of fishermen, shopkeepers, medical school students and musicians. Of course, we enjoyed talking with pilgrims who had just finished their long journey.

Another remarkable Parador is in Cangas de Onís, about 100 miles to the east of Santiago in the mountains of Asturias. It was here, at the Battle of Covadonga in 722 AD, that the Spanish first defeated the invading Moors after 12 years of setbacks. From the beginning of the Moorish invasion in 711 AD, refugees and knights from the south had been moving north to avoid Islamic authority. Some had taken refuge in the remote mountains of Asturias. The struggle between the two sides would last in one way or another for the next 700 years until 1492, when Isabella completed the reconquest by conquering Granada.

The Parador was originally a monastery named San Pedro de la Villanueva, built in the 12th century. It is now a national monument. There are quite a few well-appointed rooms, but the secret is to ask for one of their suites. It costs a little more of course, but I have rarely had a more peaceful rest. Outside the bedroom window was a rippling brook. Down the stream, we noticed a few fly fishermen trying to catch some trout. The town itself is a beautiful mountain village famous for Gamaneo cheese, which is made only in this village. If you are lucky enough to be there on Sunday, you can mingle with the local shepherds and the cheese makers in their market.

This part of Spain was originally populated by Celtic people, similar to those who live in Scotland and Ireland. One Sunday a parade of local bagpipers marched through the village! The town is near the famous caves that produce Cabrales, the amazing blue cheese of Spain.

Finally, you can’t miss the Parador of León, formerly the 16th century monastery of San Marcos. It is nothing less than spectacular. This huge, elegant Renaissance building faces a massive stone square, and is filled with antique furnishings and tapestries. Best of all, the Parador is just a ten minute walk to the elegant 13th century Gothic cathedral, felt by many to be the most beautiful in all of Spain. Its walls are built almost exclusively of stained glass. On a sunny day light bathes the church in a transcendent glow.

Nearby is my favorite church, the Real Basilica of San Isidoro, built in the early 10th century on the site of an ancient Roman temple. Within the church is the Royal Pantheon, burial place of the early kings of León. The walls are covered with some of the finest Romanesque frescoes of Spain.

These three Paradores are but a sampling of the amazing hotels in the system. There are more than ninety other Paradores scattered throughout Spain. I would like to leave you with the secret to finishing your trip to Spain in the best way possible, full of memories of Spain’s ancient past.

As our journey is coming to an end, unavoidably thoughts invade our minds in anticipation of the dozens of details necessary for a successful trip home. If only we could avoid the dreaded airport hotel and whisk away directly from the Spain we love to our home, where our welcoming dog would greet us. It would be so much less jarring to the body and soul. In recent years, we have softened the blow of reality by spending our last night in Spain in an amazing 12th century castle on a hill.

The Parador in the town of Sigüenza is an imposing medieval castle situated within an Arab fortress, built atop a Roman settlement. The hotel's traditional Castilian furnishings are tastefully displayed in the welcoming bedrooms. Some of the rooms feature canopy beds that will make you feel as if you are lodging in a real palace. Within the thick stone walls, there is a cobbled courtyard, and a stately dining room.

We find our rooms within the stone walls of this medieval fortress; linger with a glass of sherry or a cup of tea in one of the many handsome reading rooms. After a short rest, we head for a final quality Spanish dinner.

Before retiring or the night, we leave a message at the desk that we need to be up early the next morning. Then, after a sumptuous breakfast – or just a cup of coffee and a Magdalena if we have lingered too long – we load our suitcases into our rental car and off we go. One hour later we are at the airport and embark on our trip back home. What better way to bid farewell to Spain?

If we are coming from the South – Castilla La Mancha or Andalucía – there are other Paradores within an hour of the airport. We might choose the sumptuous Parador of Toledo, with an unparalleled view of the magnificent medieval capital of the realm. Alternatively, sometimes we want to be a little more lighthearted and choose the rural Parador in Chinchón, which is located in the buildings of the former XVII C Augustinian convent of Santa María del Paraíso.

The interior walls are decorated with Renaissance murals, magnificent tapestries and classical furniture in the Castile style. We find the bedrooms pleasant and spacious with windows looking out onto the gardens that were the old cloisters, now enclosed in glass.

The Parador/Monastery forms part of the famous "Plaza Mayor," the large square that is closed on Saturdays in summer to hold bull fights. The spectators watch from the galleries that surround the square. When not being used for bullfights, the Plaza Mayor is a very pleasant square with cafes where many people drink the locally produce aniseed aperitif.

We always stop at the restaurant that features old Spanish tiles and a large ceramic oven, which provide us with cochinillo, delicious roast suckling pig. The classic square is dominated by the parish church, where the brother of Goya was the parish priest and may have an altar decorated by the great artist.

From the north or the south, we prepare to fly home from either of these Paradores – all about an hour or two from Barajas, and avoid the hustle of the city.

¡Buen viaje!

Tu amigo,
Don

I first met Fermín Rodríguez years ago at the Alimentaria, the amazing food show whose origin dates back over 800 years ago. In Barcelona, we wandered massive halls filled with every imaginable product that farmers proudly provide from the bounty of Spanish agriculture. One hall had hundreds of hams of every conceivable type from all the corners of Spain. If you want to be the ultimate food enthusiast, go to Barcelona in March during the even numbered years.

At any rate, one of the huge pavilions which most caught my attention was dedicated to extra virgin olive oil, Spain's premier product for thousands of years. In Roman times even the Italians preferred Spanish to Italian olive oil. Today there is a hill in Rome that is actually a massive mound of thousands discarded clay olive oil amphoras that transported olive oil from Spain. When full, they satisfied the desires of all of the the emperors in Rome and their courts.

Tucked in an obscure corner of this hall away from the commercial "big boys," we met Fermín. He was taking turns manning a modest booth, which was sponsored by the families of some producers of the highest quality artisan extra virgin olive oil of his region. In the course of our conversation with him, he invited us to visit his family holdings in the region of Priego de Cordoba - one of those radiant white towns of Andalucía which overlook acres and acres of olive groves.

He was gracious as he showed us around the estate, and reminisced about playing in the olive groves as a boy. He showed us one ancient tree that was huge and gnarled enough to serve as the perfect place to hide when playing hide and go seek.

He offered us his family's extra virgin olive oil, Señorío de Vizcántar, which is composed of a mélange of the fragrant oil pressed from the Hojiblanca, Picual and Picudo trees intermingled in their groves. It is not a single fruit oil but rather a coupage of several which Fermín, as a master taster of the region, blends into a full-flavored fruity oil. Year after year we have tried hundreds of olive oils, but Señorío continues to be our favorite.

When friends come to me for advice as to where in Andalucía they should explore, I invariably tell them to visit Priego de Córdoba and see our friend Fermín along with his delightful wife Aixa and their frisky little girl, Sofia. I know they will learn all about olive oil, while enjoying the gracious hospitality of the Rodriguez family. One of our customers, Courtenay, wrote this beautiful account of her visit to the olive groves of Vizcántar that I would like to share with you.

"I dreamed I was walking in a grove of ancient olive trees.

Like petrified giants, they stood rooted deep in the soil. Their gnarled trunks seemed made of stone, grey bark riddled with crevices. Only the silvery leaves sprouting from twisted branches fluttered in a sudden breeze.

If those trees could talk, what tales they would tell. Of Romans and Moors who swept across these hills centuries ago, leaving aqueducts and watch towers behind. And of a little boy who played happily among the rabbits and birds, plucking wild asparagus, hiding in a hollow of a tree older than he could count.

But wait. Is this a dream?

No, I’m awake — and I’ve seen that very grove.

It’s near the white town of Priego de Cordoba in Andalucía in southern Spain, off a narrow rutted road more suited to a battered pickup truck than the BMW sedan in which we are jouncing along. In the 18th century Priego was a town made rich by silk production, but today the groves extend as far as the eye can see and olive oil is king.

We’re with Fermin Rodriguez, a burly, soft-spoken man with a radiant smile. His family has tended this grove for three generations, and his brothers still live in the old family home nearby. In town he and his Moroccan wife Aixa have a tasting room, where visitors can sample the award-winning extra virgin olive oil which they bottle and sell under the name Senorio de Vizcantar.

And though he is a polished spokesman for Vizcantar, skillfully guiding novices through the finer points of blending and tasting, once Fermín steps into the grove, the years fall away. “I used to play here,” he recalls happily, as we walk through a field of golden wildflowers.

All around us are magnificent olive trees — Picudo and Hojiblanco, among others — planted old-style, far apart, still bearing fruit into their sunset years. Near a tiny stream Fermín stoops to pluck a few stalks of wild asparagus. He nibbles one end and smiles dreamily. "It’s so delicious. We’ll have it for supper tonight."

At least one of these ancient trees, which he calls "the millenary olive," is estimated to be 1,800 years old, and may have been planted in the time of the Romans. It’s an Hojiblanco and from a distance, it is an ungainly creature with branches, some broken or split, jutting at awkward angles. Only as we get closer do I see how massive the trunk is and how it spreads over the ground. It’s pockmarked with holes and deep crevasses, and on one side, where the wood has rotted away, there is a child-size hollow. "This is where I would hide myself when I was little," Fermin says, laughing at the memory. "I would stay here for hours."

This handsome relic still produces olives which lend their peppery, almond-like flavor to Vizcantar oils.

But our idyllic amble in the grove with Fermín only exposes part of his charm. Back at his retail shop in town, we sit at tables that make it double as a lecture hall. Here tour buses stop frequently so that travelers may complete their education. He teaches pilgrims the difference between good and bad oil, the importance of cooperative enterprise for small producers, and the ritual the novice should practice in tasting olive oils.

As in many industries, olive oil production is dominated by a handful of very large landowners. But then there are a resolute few, like Fermín, who are clever and agile enough to continue the art of their ancestors, making the most of their small holdings. After a chat, we leave for Cordoba, feeling fortunate to have spent a few hours in his company — and to have seen his magnificent grove."

Many people are unaware of a Celtic region in northwest Spain, north of Portugal. With bagpipes, rias/fjords and rolling green hills dotted with cows, Galicia reminds many people of Ireland. The Gallegos are distinct down-to-earth people. There is some evidence that the Celts of the British Isles were originally from this part of Spain.

If you are thinking about an off-the-beaten-track trip to Spain, I would like to whet your appetite with this compact itinerary that my wife Ruth and I found very satisfying. We were in the region in March 2011 and were surprised to find many fruit trees in bloom! Any time of year is fine, bearing in mind that August is the month in which all of Europe goes on vacation, and, like Ireland, the off-seasons can be misty and rainy.

We found that driving along the shoreline of Galicia was a lot of fun, visiting picturesque fishing villages as well as some teeming ports. The villages are reminiscent of ones in northern New England, or northern California and the coastal region of Oregon. (I visited the lighthouses and rescue stations of that beautiful region many years ago as a Coast Guard chaplain). If you choose to turn inland, you will find rolling hills, grazing cows and wild horses.

The heart of Galicia (and perhaps Spain) is the medieval city of Santiago de Compostela, which has been the pilgrimage destination of the Camino de Santiago for over 1,000 years. When you visit you will meet modern-day pilgrims walking towards Santiago and on to Cabo Fisterra (Finisterra), the "end of the world."

We flew into Santiago de Compostela after changing planes in Madrid – it is an easy connection. We arrived in Santiago at 12:30 PM. That allowed us plenty of time to take a siesta to compensate for the jet lag, and get up for a stroll under the granite arches of this magical city and sample a few tapas.

Over the years we have stayed in several good hotels in Santiago, but without doubt we found our stays at the Parador de los Reyes Católicos to be extraordinary – worth every dime. It is a splendid hotel erected in 1492 by Queen Isabella as a hospital and resting place for pilgrims. It is one of dozens of ancient buildings converted to Parador hotels by the Spanish government. Antique furniture and beautiful art objects from the Middle Ages fill the hallways. In the center are four granite patios of the medieval hospital which are dedicated to the four evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. It is an unforgettable experience, and the service is very friendly and attentive. An alternative is the Hotel San Francisco. It was originally a seminary devoted to the training of young men to be Franciscan missionaries, but has been completely renovated, including an indoor swimming pool overlooking the green hills.

After breakfast the next day, we returned to the awesome Romanesque Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It has the solid earthy feel of an ancient Romanesque church with its sturdy barrel-vaults and arches. Always populated with grateful pilgrims, I think you would feel its grandeur even if you know nothing about ancient architecture. Above the high altar is a bust of Santiago (Saint James) who seems to be surveying the faithful visitors. We always climb the narrow stairs behind the bust and join the many pilgrims who quietly embrace the representation of Santiago as countless people have done over the centuries. His remains reside in a crypt below.

As you stroll through the granite arcades of the town, you will encounter pilgrims from all over the globe, as well as young medical school students and music majors from the University of Santiago – it is a delightful mix of people.

The concierge at the Parador recommended that we try having dinner at Don Quixote Restaurant, right down the hill from the hotel. Despite its name, it is not a tourist restaurant, but rather one the local people enthusiastically support. We found their seafood and fish artfully and simply cooked. To get there from the Parador, continue walking down the hill and turn right. Soon you will find the restaurant. We feasted on amazingly fresh seafood – my favorite dish is steamed berberechos – tiny cockle clams.

The next day was devoted to visiting the fishing villages by driving south toward the shoreline and the many rias or fjords which feed into the Atlantic Ocean. It is a rich habitat for the famous local seafood. We found Aguiño: a picturesque fishing village with beautiful beaches. The fishermen there specialize in catching pulpo (octopus) the local delicacy.

As you drive along the shoreline, you will come upon the bustling fishing port of Muros. It has a history linked with fishing, shellfish gathering and factories to salt sardines and mackerel.

In the Middle Ages, Muros was one of the Galicia’s most important ports, and had a large fishing fleet. This splendor may still be felt as you walk through its narrow, winding streets. The tapas bar district near the port is the picturesque focal point of the city, with the neighboring areas of the Peixería Vella (old fish market square) full of life, particularly in the morning and evening, after the fish auction held on the quayside.

Further along the coast, Cabo Fisterra is the final destination for many pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, after they have visited the shrine of the apostle James in the cathedral. It is about a 56 mile walk from Santiago. The origin of pilgrims walking to Finisterre possibly dates from medieval times, when "hospitals" were established to serve the pilgrims walking along the route. A curious and relatively new tradition is for pilgrims to burn their clothes when they arrive in Fisterra.

As we drove toward A Coruña, we enjoyed the beautiful shoreline view as you continue to El Ferrol. On the way, we stopped at the town of Betanzos. It is a medieval walled town that preserves three of its original four gates. Then we drove to El Ferrol and stayed at the Parador El Ferrol, built in an old mansion by the sea.

After exploring the two medieval castles - Castillo de San Felipe and Castillo de la Palma in El Ferrol - we continued into the interior of Galícia to the medieval town of Lugo, a world heritage site encircled by almost two miles of completely intact Roman walls and battlements built in the 3rd century AD. The dairy farms near Lugo contribute to the production of tetilla, a mild cow’s milk cheese, somewhat similar to Edam from Holland. Lugo is also the home of the bakery which provides the delicious Galician bread we import.

We drove an hour further to Montfort de Lemos, which was a fortified Celtic town, famous for its swords, then a Roman settlement followed by a Visigoth settlement until it was destroyed by the Moors in the 8th century. We stayed at the imposing Parador Monforte de Lemos, which was the 12th century monastery of San Vicente do Pino.

The next day we headed for Baiona, where the caravel La Pinta (one of Columbus’s fleet) tied up on March 1, 1493. The crew was the first to bring news about the New World. You can visit a replica of La Pinta moored in the harbor. The celebration of this amazing discovery is the most festive of many annual ferias in this fortified medieval city. The location of the sumptuous Parador, midway between a medieval fortress and a manor house, is protected by a pine forest and a splendid bay into which the Rias Baixas empties. We lingered there for quite a while enjoying glasses of Albariño, the famous Galician wine from the region.

The next day we stopped by the busy port of Vigo before driving up the coast to Pontevedra, traditionally believed to be founded by a survivor of the Trojan War. The Roman Bridge which spans the Léres River has stood intact for over two thousand years. The city reached its commercial height in the 15th century. Christopher Columbus’s ship Santa María was originally named "Galego," because it was built in Pontevedra. We enjoyed taking our time exploring one of the largest medieval towns in Spain before heading north toward Santiago where we would to catch our flight back to the United States.

We decided to stay at the active fishing port of Cambados, where our highest quality seafood is prepared in tins for export. Some of the finest gourmet seafood such as berberechos (cockles), sardinas and pulpo (octopus) are tinned there. Cambados is the capital of Albariño, the world-famous white wine.

We discovered Pazo a Capitana, a restored 15th century estate not far from the center of the town, surrounded by vineyards, and with extensive gardens. We stayed in one of the tasteful bedrooms, which was decorated according to traditional Gallego style. Out in the plaza were extensive gardens with fruit trees and an antique bodega. It was a quiet almost Parador-like place with an antique bodega. It is one our favorites in all of Spain.

On our way to the airport we made a side trip to Padrón – home of the small green peppers: Pimientos de Padrón. I am sure some of you have tried them either in Spain or via La Tienda. They are sautéed in olive oil and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. Most taste sweet and mild, but a few are very hot and spicy – and there’s no way to tell which one is which.

According to tradition, Padrón is the site which received the relics of Saint James. As legend would have it, soon after his martyrdom in Jerusalem, Saint James’s disciples placed his remains in a stone boat that sailed across the Mediterranean and up the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula. They finally tied up the craft on a padrón (Spanish word for “big stone”). If you would like to visit the stone "padrón," it still can be seen today at the Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol de Padrón. There is also the Iglesia de Santa María Mayor de Iria Flavia. It is a curious building with a small graveyard packed with gravestones encrusted with lichen.

At any rate, from Cambados to the airport is a little over an hour drive - and we were whisked away from a magical part of Spain, where we had enjoyed cordial down-to-earth people living in a land that in many ways remains untouched over the centuries.

Su amigo,
Don

Last month I recounted how easy it is to discover amazing jewels of Spanish culture by wandering just a few kilometers from the engaging city of Barcelona. There is so much more you can see by ever so slightly straying off the beaten path.

Today I want to go with you to exotic Andalucía, starting in the ancient city of Sevilla. Yes, there are bullfights, and lavish ferias (fairs) and flamenco dancing, but there is so much more to the land of Sevilla, Córdoba and Granada. I say exotic because, from 711 AD, when Arabs and Berbers from nearby Africa invaded Spain, until 1492 (721 years later) when the Christian forces finally defeated the Muslims at Granada, the Moorish culture was the dominant way of life in much of southern Spain. Over centuries the Arabs, Berbers and Spanish Christians intermarried and quickly became one people – called the Moors.

It was that mix of cultures (not always a happy one) which produced this amazing land and people. Their warmth and hospitality is legendary, their social values are inimitable. I know it may be a cliché, but they truly work to live, rather than living to work. They are industrious when appropriate, and at the same time, they are gracious - placing human values first.

First, getting there. If you choose to drive from the Madrid airport to Sevilla, the heart of Andalucía, it is a long haul. After completing an overnight flight from the States, you may want drive south and stop at the amazing Parador in Jaén – a castle-hotel dramatically built on a cliff overlooking thousands of acres of olive groves. Then you can head for Carmona and Sevilla the next day.

Another less demanding option is to catch the sleek bullet train called the AVE all the way from Madrid to Sevilla, where we rent a car upon arrival. But the simplest option is to book your flight from your local airport, via Madrid to the handy Sevilla airport, where you pick up your luggage and rental car and make a 30-minute drive to Carmona on the road to Córdoba. By mid-afternoon you can be comfortably settled in Casa de Carmona, our favorite hotel, originally a 15th century palace (and quite reasonably priced). After a refreshing siesta you will be ready for an evening sherry and some tapas.

The next morning you return to the glittering city of Sevilla with its Santa Cruz Sephardic quarter and the fascinating gypsy section of Triana across the river. Unless you want to immerse yourself in the ambiance of Sevilla for a long period, you can catch the highlights in a day. There is the World Heritage Cathedral-Mesquita, originally designed to be a mosque in the 13th century (with Columbus’s tomb) and New World golden altarpiece. You can climb up the towering Giralda bell tower, still present from the original mosque. Around the corner is the amazing Moorish Alcázar fortress whose architect is also responsible for much of the Alhambra design in Granada.

When you are filled to the brim with Sevilla sights, return to the classic town of Carmona. It has a wonderful Parador hotel built directly in a castle that has battlements built by Pedro the Cruel, with a breathtaking view of the plains. Carmona has a lovely main square and the ancient streets make for a pleasant stroll back to Casa de Carmona. There you can immerse yourself in the ambiance of Spain with nary a tourist in sight. What could be more soothing than to sip a drink and nibble Manchego cheese and olives in its large courtyard of palms. Let me know if you plan to visit there and I will alert our good friend Felipe, the owner who speaks flawless English (he went to MIT!)

The next day you have two options: The first is a one hour freeway ride south to the three famous sherry towns. The first is Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the ultimate laid-back seaside town next to Doñana - with a wildlife preserve complete with pink flamingos feasting on krill. Another is Jerez de la Frontera, the elegant sherry town with an incomparable horse feria each May. During the fair the carriages full of revelers in period dress reminds me of a flamenco version of Gone With the Wind! Finally there is El Puerto de Santa María, a quiet town on the bay of Cádiz, full of fresh seafood and great wine.

I encourage you to make a visit to a sherry bodega in each of these towns. Because of the differences in climate and closeness to the sea, each town boasts unique sherry wines with an amazing variety of tastes. (For the uninitiated, most sherry is not that intolerably sweet wine you may be imagining – most sherry is subtle and quite dry). The bodegas are very welcoming and there is nothing like strolling through a room filled with giant oak barrels holding thousands of gallons of sherry. The bright aroma fills the air, a scent that always transports us back to the region. One of our favorite bodegas is Gutiérrez Colosia in El Puerto by the waterfront. If you stop by, be sure to let Carmen and Juan Carlos know that we sent you!

From El Puerto you can take a brief ferry ride to Cádiz, the oldest city in Europe. The locals say it was founded 3,000 years ago by Hercules. The 3,000 years is correct since it was founded by the Carthaginians, but I am not sure of the Hercules part - he was quite preoccupied with his Labors. The municipal market, near the cathedral, is truly awesome with acres and acres of fresh fish and other amazing creatures of the deep. Cádiz is surrounded by many Atlantic beaches and sports a brand new glistening Parador hotel.

Another journey from Carmona is to drive east one hour to Córdoba, stopping by for a visit to the amazingly restored Almodóvar castle. In its glory days Córdoba was the center of Islamic/Moorish culture and achievement - centuries more advanced than Paris or London. There you can visit a full scale cathedral tucked inside a massive mosque, one of the all-time architectural jewels of Islam. I could linger there for hours. Next to it are the colorful white washed buildings of the Jewish quarter, home of Maimonides. In May, you can witness the Feria de Patios where you wander through private courtyards bedecked with flowers.

An hour and a half south of there you can be in Priego de Córdoba, one of the hilltop white cities of Andalucía, where I can introduce you to Fermín and Aixa Rodríguez. Over some wine and tapas they will show you how they produce La Tienda’s most popular olive oil: Señorío de Vizcántar. Their little daughter Sofía is as bright as she is cute.

I could go on and on: Ronda, Arcos de La Frontera, Medina-Sidonia, El Rocío, Grazalema and other jewels are nearby, and Granada is just an hour or two further. A quick Google search can uncover mountains of information about these towns that we only dreamed of having when I first started traveling Spain. The areas I have touched upon are all within a two to three hour radius of beautiful Sevilla. Next time you travel to Spain, map out an itinerary that will take you off the beaten path – it will make all the difference!

Often times my Spanish friends will tell me how much they enjoyed their visit to the United States. But when I inquire about their trip they tell me that their visit was confined to Manhattan or Miami. As entertaining or amazing as these two cities are, they do not typify most of the U.S. If they had only sought some advice, how much more of our amazing country they could have enjoyed!

The same is often the case when my American neighbors say they are planning to visit Spain – yet the tour is often limited to a flight to Madrid or a cruise ship layover in Barcelona. Both are wonderful cities without a doubt, but there is so much more to explore!

For anyone planning to travel to Spain, I would like to pass onto you a few tips on how to get the best out of your visit that are the result of 50 years of travel throughout Spain.

I will start with some practical knowledge that will help you leave the beaten path. First, although it is always more enjoyable if you can speak some Spanish, you can more than 'get-by' with English. Spaniards are warm and receptive people.

Secondly, ATM’s are everywhere—even in the small towns, and credit cards are generally accepted (before you leave home, tip off your credit card bank that you will be traveling overseas). For this reason, we rarely carry over 100 Euros in our wallets.

Thirdly, before we leave the USA, we always book a rental car at the arrival airport, whether in Madrid, Sevilla or Barcelona. Ruth and I are no spring chickens, yet driving is still no problem for us - the Spanish infrastructure is better than ours, and the highways are clearly marked. This way you can stop at a rustic village or two as the spirit moves you, then rocket on to your final destination. If you do not want to drive, the train system is excellent.

Finally, if you are ever in doubt as to where to spend the night, you can count on the beautiful Parador hotels run by the Spanish government – there are over 80 of them – most are restored monasteries, palaces, castles or other historical sites. Some are amazing: a former 15th century pilgrimage hostel built by Queen Isabella in Santiago de Compostela; a Parador located on the grounds of the Alhambra fortress in Granada; or a towering castle in Sigüenza where we often stay the night before catching our flight home. You can book them ahead of time online.

Lately many of my friends say they would like to stay close to the beautiful port city of Barcelona. Today I will share some travel tips on how you can visit some of Spain’s most beautiful destinations, all within a short drive of the city.

One hour north of Barcelona you can visit ancient Girona to see the rare, thousand-year-old needlework Creation tapestry in the huge cathedral (3rd widest in the world), and a fascinating Sephardic (Jewish) quarter with a rare mikveh and Center for Jewish Studies.

If culture is not your primary interest, the Costa Brava is but 90 minutes east, with rugged Mediterranean beaches. The Parador Aiguablava is a wonderful site where you can relax above the crashing surf. The area is fascinating, and if you are up to wandering a little in a car, you could visit our friends Hans and Daida who live in a medieval finca and produce Can Solivera - among the best olive oils in Spain.

Just a few kilometers north from the relaxing Parador is one of the most interesting complexes in the medieval world of Catalunya. Here we find three elements that were the pillars of feudal society. You can explore ruins of the dramatic Sant Pere de Rodes monastery, which juts out from the shores of the Costa Brava. It was built a thousand years ago to house pilgrims and is beautifully restored. On the pathway to the monastery is the tiny village of Santa Creu de Rodes. Because of the pilgrimages, it thrived between the 12th and 14th centuries and had as many as 250 inhabitants. It was eventually abandoned due to wars, the plague and poor harvests, freezing the village in time. Finally, on your exploratory hike you will find the ruins of Verdura Castle, a fortress towering over the complex. All the while you will enjoy the breeze blowing from the Mediterranean Sea.

Yet another appealing option is to drive northeast one hour to the ancient city of Vic. It is noted for its Salchichón de Vic, a famous dry cured sausage, as well as an amazing new museum filled with medieval wood carvings from remote churches and monasteries that are located in the interior valleys of the rugged Pyrenees. These formidable mountains delineate Spain from the rest of Europe.

If what you see in Vic whets your appetite for 10th-12th century art, I can connect you with my friend Marina, a retired school teacher living with her husband in an 800 year old house. What a warm and intelligent woman she is - and totally Catalan in her outlook. She will guide you north into small villages in the Pyrenees that she has known all her life.

There is so much more you can see by ever so slightly straying off the beaten path. You can expand beyond the usual tourist attractions – though you shouldn’t miss the Boquería market full of astonishing seafood and produce, or the Museum of Catalán Art. But you need not be confined to the well-worn paths of the tourists.

If you follow my suggestions you may never see an American tourist! My favorite hamlet is Sant Joan de les Abadesses, named after a monastic abbey founded by Wilfred the Hairy (!) over a thousand years ago in 886 AD. Displayed behind the altar you would see what many say is perhaps the most moving example of 10th century Christian art. You will not see it in any museum - yet it is only two hours from Barcelona (if you know where to go!)

With a little extra effort you can create a much more meaningful and fascinating trip.

Dear friends,

It is rare that I have the opportunity to return the gracious hospitality of the many friends we’ve visited in Spain. But that is exactly what happened this holiday season when our good friends Jaime and Silvia Borrás traveled from Sevilla to be with our family for Thanksgiving dinner in Williamsburg!

We welcomed them with open arms and embraced them as part of our family as we all enjoyed an old fashioned Thanksgiving meal with all the trimmings: turkey and stuffing, cranberry sauce, butternut squash, pumpkin pie. It was a warm time of friendship and laughter: Jaime invented a new culinary creation – a blend of gravy, squash and mashed potatoes!

Professionally we have visited our friends at Catunambú several times – the Borrás family’s amazing coffee roasting plant in Sevilla. We particularly enjoyed walking amongst the hundreds of bags of fresh coffee beans from the four corners of the earth. Over the past few years the demand for their unique rich and mellow coffee has grown substantially: first throughout Spain, and now Asia, where it has been enthusiastically received by people in Thailand, Myanmar and China. In honor of the visit by Jaime and Silvia, I’d like to share with you one of my favorite essays about coffee in Spain.

Tu amigo,
Don

Coffee is at the center of virtually all social interaction in Spain. It is as essential to understanding the country as jamón, Spain's iconic ham. Drinking coffee is the event around which the Spaniard organizes his day. It is consumed upon arising; during mid morning break at the office or while shopping. It accompanies the noon meal and at the conclusion of the business day, when people are making a paseo, strolling by cafes in the late afternoon. It is the entrada into tapas time and the focus for impromptu meetings. Your local bartender knows you by name – and your children too!

There is something reassuring about the morning ritual in neighborhood bars across Spain. The bartender presides behind the marble counter as his customers in the neighborhood filter in to begin a new day. He may offer freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh bread and croissants from the local bakery, even thick hot chocolate a la taza (and on Sundays there may be some churros). But the star of the show is clearly his coffee, the preparation of which he executes with pride. It is not from some automatic machine or, even more distressing, from a pot of coffee warming on a hot plate.

The production is serious business and it is served in special ceramic cups as it has been for over a hundred years. If you get to the bar early enough, maybe 9 am or so, you may see that he has lined up a parade of espresso cups, each with its saucer, envelope of cane sugar and a little spoon to stir it. He is ready to greet the day – performing his vital contribution to the community.

A historical note - when Andalucía experienced deep poverty in the aftermath of the Civil War in the early 1940s, many bartenders could not afford ceramic cups, so they served coffee in clear glasses or tumblers. Even today, when cost is no longer such a consideration, many cafés still follow that routine (at the expense of my burnt fingers).

As with any work of art, preparation of espresso coffee is 90% of the story. The bartender addresses his stainless coffee making console as a maestro - with its shiny chrome fittings, clamps and presses, and of course the steam valves, which make the most delicious noise as he turns beans into espresso, and milk into foam. The escaping steam does not create the same level of drama exhibited by the great old train steam engines, but it bravely proclaims "tradition!" in this automated and impersonal age.

He begins with the familiar “clack, clack, clack” as he relentlessly bangs a container against the side of the console to rid it of old coffee grounds. With the whirr of the grinder, he prepares fresh roasted beans, tamps down the fresh ground coffee and clamps it into one of the receptacles of this amazing machine. Finally, with a flick of the switch, the bartender activates the reservoir of steam, and a little stream of rich espresso quietly dribbles into your cup.

You might order café solo – a no nonsense rich coffee - or you may prefer a cortado, where it is cut with a small amount of milk. In the morning, many prefer café con leche, where the concentrated coffee is diluted with freshly foamed milk. As a special jet of steam transforms the milk, I suspect the bartender relishes preparing this as his grand finale.

This is a venerable process and each step of the ritual is essential. It is not to be hurried, for then you destroy the comforting rhythm. You might as well dash out to get a semi-automatically made foolproof latté served in a paper cup (!) as you might do at home.

To get to the root of this daily ritual I paid a call on my friend Jaime Borrás, an enthusiastic owner of Catunambú, a coffee roasting company in Sevilla. He is an energetic man whom I first met in the nearby Parador in Carmona (after a 9 hour flight from Dulles) where he regaled me with an immense amount of information about his favorite topic: coffee.

A few days later Ruth, my son Tim, his wife Amy and I met Jaime among piles of cloth and burlap bags of coffee beans in the warehouse of Catunambú, a famous old firm from Sevilla, founded in 1897.

It was an amazing experience to stroll around this fascinating warehouse with Jaime. I saw bags from up to 20 different countries including New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, and of course South America and Africa. They contribute to an array of complex blends that are varied upon request. For example, the house coffee of El Corte Inglés is blended and then roasted by Catunambú, as are the coffees served at the Paradores – the national rural inns.

Catunambú coffees are made of unique blends whose secret is held within the family. Every few days the composition of the blend is adjusted to reflect the current availability of the coffee beans. There are five people present at that meeting: the master roaster and four members of the Borrás family: my friend Jaime, his brother José María, his sister Concha, and of course their father José Manuel. They spend several hours comparing samples of the roasts and adjusting it to maintain its reputation for quality and consistency. They may select up to 16 different varieties of beans for the blend, far more than I can get at my local beanery!

The reason the coffee blends need constant attention, Jaime explained to me, is that at various times of the year the coffee beans grow differently. This is especially so with beans grown in Vietnam and Africa, where there is a considerable amount of humidity, which varies widely during the course of a given year.

Another factor which determines an artisan quality of coffee is how the coffee beans are harvested. On the same plant you will find flowers and unripe beans along with the beans ready for harvest. If only the perfectly ripe berries are plucked from the bush, the coffee beans are superior, but they cost more because the harvesting is labor intensive. As a money saving policy, some plantations strip all of the beans at once even if they are not ripe.

Of course the type of beans are the most important factor is blending a fine coffee. The beans that make up the majority of coffees that Catunambú blends are Arabica. They come from a more delicate plant that is harder to grow, but the quality is far superior. Roasted Arabica beans produce an aromatic, rich coffee with an intense flavor.

Another kind of coffee is called robusto. Although mostly a less expensive bean, there are also high quality robusto beans in the world. It has a full body but very little aroma and is not at all bitter. Catunambú includes quality robusto beans from Papua New Guinea and Java in their blend, adjusting the percentage from either country because the quality is variable.

For acidity, the Borrás family selects coffee from Kenya and Colombia; for aroma, they mix the Colombian coffee with Guatemalan coffee about 50-50; Mexico pluma is very acidic almost like lemon juice; the body comes from Java and Papua New Guinea and the Colombian coffee, which is somewhat weak, fills in the corners. If you look in a bag, you will see some beans, such as Arabica, which have been washed, while the Robusta beans are strip dried.

To fix the base aroma, the Borrás family uses three different coffees from Brazil, because they offer a balance between aroma, taste and body. One coffee bean is Cerrado, which is smooth; another is Minajenais, which has double the flavor; and the third is Santos, which is two times as tasty as Cerrado and has two times the body of Minajenais.

A special blend of coffee rarely found outside of Spain that we offer is called Torrefacto. It is most likely the kind you would savor sitting outdoors at a local café in Spain. Often times our customers want to recreate their experience in Spain with exactitude – and this is the way you can enjoy café con leche as they serve in Granada, Barcelona or Sevilla. The secret is this: they lightly mist a percentage of beans with a sugar solution before roasting them which makes them exceptionally dark and full flavored though not sweet, as the sugar is mostly roasted away.

In the late 15th century, the Borrás family, originally from Mallorca, migrated to Valencia and Alicante and then along the eastern coast of Spain, bordered by the Mediterranean Sea. At first, the family was involved in chocolate production around the city of Tarragona - in the 18th century Spain drank chocolate as the beverage of choice, not coffee.

Later the family migrated to the port of Ceuta, to serve the needs of the Spanish military, which was based in this Spanish enclave in Africa, across from Gibraltar. Their original business remains there to this day. Merchant ships from South America would refuel in the port of Ceuta, and in their holds were bags of coffee beans. The Borrás family recognized the opportunity and was soon roasting coffee as well as chocolate since the same roaster can be used for both.

In the early 20th century, Jaime's father, José Manuel, was sent as a young man to Barcelona in order to learn about chocolate production. The company he visited was Tupinamba. As he learned more about chocolate production and the Borrás family became familiar with the operation of the company, they saw a good business opportunity and purchased Tupinamba – the sister company of Catunambú.

During the subsequent economic realignment of Spain in the mid-1970s after the death of Francisco Franco, the Borrás family had the opportunity to purchase the venerable Catunambú company, a famous old firm from Sevilla founded in 1897. Drawing from their years of experience in Tarragona, Africa and Barcelona they were able to restore Catunambú to its former glory, now known as "El Café de Andalucía!"

In Spain, coffee blends are very regional - there is no national brand of Spanish coffee. Catunambú is mellow and smooth to match the temperament of life in Andalucía. The people in the north of Spain, such as in Barcelona, prefer a coffee such as Tubinamba – it has a more intense flavor, though it is not stronger - it's just more acidic and dark. The Borrás family owns both companies - and each is named after a tribe of Amazonian Indians. Each has a distinct flavor - it is all a matter of taste!