We always look forward to visiting Asturias, a magnificent area where the crashing sea, sheer mountains and green pastures abound. To the north are the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Sea. To the south are the amazing Picos de Europa. Its dramatic sheer cliffs have protected the area from invasions from the south, and its geographic isolation has protected the area from foreign intruders.

The capital city of Oviedo offers hearty food, and restaurants which vie for who makes the best fabada bean stew. The Asturians use few condiments in their dishes that might detract from the natural taste of the ingredients. Their kitchens use traditional stoves, much as they do in neighboring Galicia and in Ireland – all areas settled by the Celts.

We love the way the waiters nonchalantly pour sidra from arm’s length into fragile glasses. Never is a drop lost! Sidra hard cider is brewed just down the road toward the coast in towns such as Nava and Villaviciosa. The latter was the port where Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and his entourage landed on his way to claim the throne of Spain (due to a navigation error!).

However, we are talking about “modern” times, since two monks founded the city in 761 AD soon after the Christian victory over the invading Moors. A fascinating place we have visited many times over the past 45 years is the Camara Santa in the Cathedral of Oviedo nearby. It is the repository of relics, some of which originated in Jerusalem. For safekeeping, the Christians passed them across Africa and north through Spain ahead of the invading Muslim armies.

Within the room full of relics and jeweled boxes from the 8th century are two remarkable processional crosses – made of wood encased in gold and studded with jewels. The Cross of the Angels (808 AD) has delicate filigree and polished stones. The Cross of Victory was crafted exactly one hundred years later in 908 AD and shows advances in jewelry-making such as faceted stones. We find it worth the trip just to revisit the Camera Santa, as well as two fascinating pre-Romanesque structures on the outskirts of town: Santa María de Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo. There is nothing quite like the art one can find here in the remote part of Spain.

The Ibero-Celtic men of Asturias ambushed the Berber forces working their way through the sheer Picos, hoping to complete their invasion of Spain. The mythic Battle of Covadonga in 722 AD was the high water mark of the Moorish presence in Spain.

Had not the Asturians been victorious, the Islamic forces would have completed their capture of Spain and extended beyond the Pyrenees to all of Christian Europe.

We have visited the site of the battleground where a heroic bronze statue of Don Pelayo surveys the valley of his victory, and the grotto of the Virgin of Covadonga welcomes the faithful. The Celtic natives are proud to point out that the Principality of Asturias is the only part of Spain that has never been conquered by outsiders. The Prince of Asturias is the Crown Prince of Spain.

While we were in the area we visited bucolic valleys and meadows dotted with grazing sheep and goats, whose milk produces local artisan cheeses which are unique to the area. Cangas de Onís, the ancient capital of Asturias, is a delightful town by a rippling river. Blue cheeses from the town of Cabrales are cured in caves close to the sea. More delicate cheeses such as Gamaneo are made by hand by local cheese makers -- some still originate in the high meadows atop the Picos de Europa.

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Being originally New Englander, I love to drive along the coast of the Cantabrian sea in the autonomous region of Cantabria. It has some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Spain. I love its rocky coastline, which, now that I think of it, reminds me of the rocky coastline north of San Francisco just as much as that of Northern New England. It is blessed by more than 72 deep sheltered beaches.

I enjoy mingling with the locals in the seaside fishing villages. Their Celtic stock reminds me of my childhood days. Their anchovies and bonito tuna are legendary. Back home at La Tienda we send out to our Spanish food enthusiasts hundreds of trays of boquerones – the little white anchovies marinated in olive oil and vinegar.

Undoubtedly the most engaging place for people touring the area is the village of Santillana del Mar, which is filled with seignorial homes and a remarkable Romanesque church within whose walls rest the bones of Santa Juliana. I don't think there is a better place to experience the sense of timelessness as you walk in the evening to the quiet, dimly lit cobblestone streets, and drop by one of the local cafés. Several times we have stayed at a Parador in town, which is very tasteful and captures the spirit of the town beautifully.

Nearby are the fascinating caves of Altamira where stone age men found shelter. Their cave paintings far excel the sketch line drawings found in other caves. All the animals they drew our anatomically precise and drawn so that their bodies conformed to the curving, irregular surface of the cave walls. The effect is three-dimensional, and the visit within the cave is almost spiritual.

When my wife and I were with able to visit the caves and nineteen sixties and early seventies we were able to have direct pass access to the paintings. But as the word has spread and roads improved the number of visitors grew much that there was fear that the paintings might be compromised. Now they have been skillfully protected while preserving a remarkable experience for the visitor.

With the many cows grazing in the mountain pastures, the high quality of their milk is known throughout the country. The milk I have tasted there is some of the best I've ever tasted. I read somewhere that the Romans used the butter as sort of a sunscreen on their bodies. What a waste!

Cheese production is something of which the Cantabrians are very proud. I enjoy their Picón cheese. It is cured in seaside caves, as is the more famous Cabrales cheese, but I find it more approachable.

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We've tasted so many great cheeses in our travels, and it is surprising Spain is not world famous for its incredible variety, boasting over 400 cheeses from every region. In fact, it seems that every valley and village in Spain has its own special cheese. Here are a few of our favorites.

From the sunny Balearic Island of Menorca comes Mahón, an aged cheese combining milk from three distinct breeds of cows. The rounded cheese is coated with mild paprika to produce its distinctive orange rind. When young, it has a creamy, slightly tart flavor is reminiscent of Dutch Gouda or Edam. The aged version has a firm, crumbly texture and almost nutty flavor.

On the northwest coast, milk from the cows of Celtic Galicia are made into traditional Tetilla, one of our most popular cheeses. It has a slightly scandalous shape and name, which is part of its appeal! Mild and creamy, this is one of Spain's most approachable cheeses.

High in the glorious coastal mountains of Cantabria artisans make the complex artisanal Cabrales -- the king of blue cheeses. The flavorful blue mold in this cheese evolves naturally from the walls of the caves where the cheeses are aged. To give you a sense of the heritage of this cheese, when we visited the area, we entered a humid Cabrales aging cave which turned out to be an ancient Roman mine! Cabrales is predominately made of cow's milk, although often blended with that of goat and sheep's milk according to a secret formula whose origin is lost in time. Spicy and intensely aromatic, this is a favorite of blue cheese aficionados.

Sheep's milk is the source for the most popular cheeses of Spain, due the vast herds of sheep that thrive in the central plains of Spain. By far, the most famous cheese is Manchego, produced in La Mancha, the central meseta of Spain -- the land of windmills and Don Quixote. The local Manchega sheep roam the dry, open countryside, enjoying wild herbs and grasses that add a complexity of flavor to the final cheeses.

A word of caution - there are many cheeses in the marketplace called 'Manchego,' just as there are many cheeses called 'cheddar.' Because of its popularity, most Manchego is industrially produced, using ultra-pasteurized milk. We work with small artisans, who often use raw milk from local herds, and the difference is amazing!

We also love Idiazábal, a smoked shepherd's cheese from the Basque Country. Most of the producers have small land holdings in the mountains - we visited one woman who lived in a comfortable house above the sheep pens! Idiazábal is nutty and has an enticing smokiness from hawthorn and cherry wood.

One of Spain's most surprising cheeses is the spoonable, brie-like cheese with a bold aromatic flavor, Torta del Casar. Legend has it that Torta del Casar cheese originated as a mistake by shepherds in Extremadura who were seeking to create a hard cheese. Using thistle rennet, some of their cheeses never fully solidified, so the cheesemakers kept them for themselves, but eventually the secret got out. Since then this special cheese has become world famous, and now has its own protected Denomination of Origin status.

We could go on to many other great cheeses, but there is nothing like tasting them for yourself. We have traveled the countryside of Spain, discovering our favorite cheeses and offering them here for you. We hope you enjoy the variety and flavor of these delicious cheeses.

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The varieties of experiences we have enjoyed in the Community of Valencia are amazing. Probably the most well known event occurs every March when the people of Valencia produce an astonishingly loud celebration called Las Fallas, complete with burning images, ear-shattering fireworks, along with toasty buñuelos, or churros and chocolate, always the contrast that is typical of Spanish culture.

But moving beyond the tourist attractions, we enjoy walking around the vineyards high up in the mountains near the village of Jumilla where hundred-year-old vines struggle to survive in the arid region of extreme temperatures each day and night. The result is a remarkable group of rich red wines, which are among our favorites.

Hidden in another group of mountains in the north of Valencia, is the imposing and quietly spectacular walled city of Morella. We remember being there during an afternoon downpour where we were obliged to step into a doorway to make way for the rain water surging down the steep cobblestone streets. With its truffles, roast meats, good people and neighboring villages in the rugged mountains -- Morella is one of our very favorite places to immerse ourselves in the culture of traditional Spain.

Not far from Morella along the Mediterranean coast is the ancient city of Sagunto, home of the gifted contemporary composer Joaquin Rodrígo, who although blind since age three due to diphtheria, wrote beautiful works that capture the spirit of Spain. His Concierto de Aranjuez is considered one of the pinnacles of the Spanish guitar concerto repertoire. On a less esoteric note, our young children enjoyed climbing over the bluffs of the Sagunto bastions, which have been under the control of many civilizations back to Hannibal and the Carthaginians in the 2nd century BC during the Punic Wars, then the Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and then El Cid, who captured this key location from the Moors.

Moving down the coast a bit, on our first extended stay in Spain, my wife and I happened to come upon the feria of Alicante. It is a more temperate celebration than La Fallas, but lots of fun – especially with some of the top bullfighters in Spain. At that time, we saw the famous toreros El Viti, Paco Camino, Antonio Ordoñez and a young upstart named “El Cordobés"!

The port city of Valencia has been a portal for many Mediterranean cultures, especially from the Middle East with the arrival of the Muslims. We have great appreciation for their decorative art, which to this day flourishes throughout the homes and patios of Valencia, as well as in neighboring Andalucía.

Years ago, my wife Ruth and I strolled the streets of Manises, now a suburb of the city of Valencia, in search of tiles for our home in Virginia. Shop after shop offered a fascinating array of tile designs, so different from anything we know as North Americans. A town of craftsmen and tile producers, Manises is one of the focal points of decorative tile designs which trace back to the Moorish times.

In the world of art, the Islamic religion, as the Jewish, avoided human figures and living creatures for fear that they could encourage the slippery slope to idolatry, which had competed with emerging monotheism. For this reason, the Muslims chose symmetry and balance as an expression of the Divine.

During the Islamic era, the areas surrounding Valencia were already an important ceramic producing region. The tile makers of Manises shipped throughout both the Christian and Muslim Mediterranean, for Valencia was the busiest port in the Mediterranean at that time. Tiles from Manises were also used as far away as Venice, Egypt, Syria, Naples and Turkey. It was also the main supplier of paving for the Papacy in Rome, whose rooms it decorated during the 15th century.

The seven hundred year Islamic presence in Spain brought rice, something even more widespread and fundamental than tile. Rice is the fundamental gift of Valencia to the rest of Spain, and through paella, to the world. The Muslims brought this grain from the Middle East and began to plant it along the lowlands near Valencia. Rice was integral to their diet and they soon passed their production techniques to the Christians who continue to use them to this day.

Paella galore – we have enjoyed it in so many forms. Although essentially it is a rice dish prepared by workers in the field, it has risen to new heights at the hands of the chefs of Valencia. Arroz a banda is our personal favorite. It is a very old dish of fishermen, which is deceivingly simple to prepare – merely rice cooked in fish broth and a few other ingredients sautéed in olive oil.

But it is the painstaking hours involved in creating the broth that separate the men from the boys! We have not truly succeeded in re-creating arroz a banda in our home. A banda means “apart” in Valencian, meaning the rice is served first and apart from the fish, which is served as a second course. It is traditionally served with alioli - a garlic mayonnaise. Our first taste of arroz a banda was when we visited a modest restaurant at the sea side town of Denía south of Valencia, famous as a source of extraordinary arroz a banda.

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Bota wineskins have been used for thousands of years in Spain, a convenient and durable storage device for travelers, shepherds and farmers. There are very few authentic botas left - most are cheap imitations meant as decorations.

True botas are handmade from goatskin. The process takes over 40 steps, from curing the leather to sewing each one together with needle and thread. The result is a wineskin that is tough, watertight and can last for generations.

We are proud to offer botas from Jesús Blasco, a family owned bota workshop in the famous castle town of Sigüenza, a couple of hours northeast of Madrid. Since the 1800s, they've preserved the ancient tradition of bota making, using wood tannins, pine pitch and flawless local goat suede. To this day the family company is run by descendants of the original founder, Julián Blasco.

If you are a purist, your choice will be a bota whose interior is coated with pine pitch - it takes more care, but it will last for decades. For a more convenient bota, we offer a latex lined wineskin. It still has the authentic suede goatskin exterior, but it requires no preparation or special care. It all depends how uncompromising you want to be!

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Navarra is exceptionally beautiful -- especially to the north where it meets the high Pyrenees along the border of France. The soaring peaks, deep valleys, bucolic pastures, swift rivers and bubbling streams that flow through thick forests of oak and beech are very appealing. It is a romantically pastoral landscape with many cattle lazily grazing. We like driving the back roads to visit quaint villages of stone houses and tile roofs. Their wooden balconies are adorned with colorful geraniums.

Pamplona, the capital city, is well known for the running of the bulls, which, thanks to Ernest Hemingway, attracts swarms of people from all over the world for a week of daring and debauchery! But that is not the essence of Navarra. I find that many of the towns, castles and monasteries along the pilgrimage route stretching from France to Santiago de Compostela are evocative of a kind of spirituality which is fast disappearing.

Puente la Reina is a wonderful eleventh century bridge which, tradition says, was built by a monk in order to help the pilgrims on their way. I found an extraordinarily moving crucifix in one of the chapels along the wayside called El Crucifijo. The scholars feel that it was the work of a pilgrim from Germany because of the exquisite carving style. This town was where converging pilgrimage routes merged into one.

Sangüesa is another town along the pilgrimage road which, though generally not too interesting, has a remarkable portal at the church of Santa Maria La Real. It has an amazing number of detailed stone carvings of musicians, warriors, craftsmen, fighters, and scenes from the new and Old Testament. We found the depiction of the musicians playing a variety of instruments to be fascinating.

We also enjoy visiting the imposing castle in Javier, the birthplace of the sixteenth century missionary to India and Japan name Francis Xavier. From a much earlier era is the stunning Monasterio de Leyre which was so beautifully maintained by the monks who lived there. The religious community has been there since the ninth century and their church is the first Romanesque structure in Navarra.

We have other tastes too, as I'm sure you do, so we always enjoy returning to the Parador in Olite. It is situated within a dramatic castle in a picturesque medieval town. Sometimes we go west from there into the green rolling hills of the farm country and visit our friends at El Navarrico, who preserve some of our very favorite vegetable products. It's great to watch them wood-firing bright red piquillo peppers, which are delivered by the farmers' tractors. I think it's particularly amusing that the rejected peppers are fed to some fighting bulls who live in the area. Then there are the magnificent asparagus spears they bottle, which are tended by hand in the early spring so that the sprouting spears are protected from the sun and remain white.

Breathtaking mountains, thick forests, remarkable architecture along the pilgrimage route make Navarra a place that we return to over and over again.

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We at La Tienda spent over ten years on a quest to bring the finest of all hams to the U.S. - Jamón Ibérico. Like the Beluga caviar or Kobe beef, Jamón Ibérico is the ultimate of its kind. The combined efforts of many Jamón enthusiasts culminated in the first Ibérico hams arriving on our shores in 2007.

Embutidos y Jamónes Fermín was the first company to export Ibérico ham to the U.S. This small family company invested countless hours and a significant amount of money to make their facilities ready for USDA approval. Since then, other companies have been approved, but we all owe Fermín a debt of gratitude for making this dream come true.

The first Jamones Ibéricos (hams) arrived in time for Christmas in 2007. The first was sliced by celebrity chef José Andrés on December 12th of that year with the Spanish ambassador to the U.S. in attendance. Now many types of Ibérico ham are available, including acorn fed Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, slices, bone-in hams and boneless hams.

The Quest for Jamón Ibérico

Jamón Ibérico is the pride of Spain. The lineage of the unique animals that produce the hams stretches back to pre-history when they ran wild in the Iberian Peninsula. Columbus had some of them on the Santa María when he set out to discover the New World. Our family began our quest for this finest of all hams when we started our business in 1996.

Ibérico pigs, the ancient Spanish breed live one of two different lifestyles - one lives the life of a normal pig eating grain, and the other is pasture raised and finished on acorns (bellotas) and wild plants. The first produces the delectable Jamón Ibérico. But the the acorn fed pigs produce the ultimate - Jamón Ibérico de Bellota. The only difference is in diet and exercise, but those things make all the difference in the world.

The rare Jamón Ibérico de Bellota hams are infused with the flavor of their favorite food, the acorn (bellota) from oak and cork trees. The paper-thin slices, glistening with healthy mono-unsaturated fat, provide a rich nutty flavor and tender texture. Spaniards consume the vast majority of these hams in their own country. Some curing houses have waiting lists for several years for their best products. They cannot always produce enough hams to meet the demand from Spain, France, Japan and now America.

From the moment they are born, the special black Ibérico hogs destined for Bellota quality are treated royally. From the time they are weaned until their 'sacrifice' (as the Spaniards term it), they live, sleep and forage under the open sky in specially maintained vast oak forests, called la dehesa. These rare black-hoofed descendants of native Iberian wild boar each have over five acres in which to forage and roam. They live for about two years in this porcine paradise - many times the lifespan of a normal domestic pig.

In the bulking-up stage each fall, the pigs feast on 15 to 20 pounds of acorns or bellotas per day. This allows them to gain as much as 2 pounds of body weight daily! The plentiful exercise they enjoy as they forage in the forest is essential to the final quality of the hams, because it allows the beneficial fat to be marbled into the muscles.

Finally, the pigs are 'sacrificed,' and the hams are salted and hung to cure from two to four years. The hams hang with mountain air circulating among them, all the while carefully monitored by the Maestro de Jamón. Over time, the hams lose 20% to 40% of their weight as much of the fat melts away. Remarkably, the curing process converts much of the remaining fat into a beneficial good-cholesterol fat, much like extra virgin olive oil. This magical process only occurs in the hams made from acorn fed pigs - producing Ibérico de Bellota hams.

Answers to Your Questions

What is Pata Negra?

Pata Negra is the informal term for the famous 'black hoofed' ham, produced from a venerable strain of Ibérico hog, native only to Spain. This can refer to either Jamón Ibérico or Jamón Ibérico de Bellota. Some people also call them 'Jabugo' hams, after a famous Spanish ham town, but again, this is just slang for any Ibérico ham.

What is the difference between Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Ibérico de Bellota?

Ibérico refers to the black Spanish pig. Bellota literally means acorns, or acorn fed. Jamón Ibérico is made from an Ibérico pig that eats normal feed. Jamón Ibérico de Bellota refers to Ibérico pigs who are pasture raised and feast on acorns.

How do I serve Ibérico ham?

Serve very thin slices at room temperature. It should be savored with a dry, refreshing wine. Like caviar, you only need a couple of ounces per person to enjoy this delicacy. Jamón Ibérico does not need to be cooked.

How do I store Ibérico ham?

Boneless or sliced Jamón Ibérico should be kept chilled until it is served. It can be stored for a couple of months as long as it is in its original packaging. Once opened the sliced ham should be eaten within a day or two. The boneless can be kept for weeks as long it is carefully wrapped and refrigerated. The bone-in ham can be stored at room temperature after it is taken out of its packaging. It can last several weeks on a ham holder as long as the cut surface is covered with plastic wrap. The cut surface can become dry or have a slight amount of mold if left for more than a couple of days, but this does no harm - simply discard the first slice and enjoy the remaining ham.

How many people will a Jamón Ibérico serve?

A pack of slices will serve a few people one time. The whole hams can serve up to 50 people at one event. A whole ham can be enjoyed by several people for a number of weeks as long as it is well cared for.

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Every household in Spain serves at least one or two of the hundreds of varieties of delicious chorizo sausages. Spanish chorizo and sausages, often referred to collectively as embutidos, come in many varieties, thick and thin, plain or smoked, some containing lean meat to be served for tapas, or with more fat to flavor stews and grilled dishes. In general, Spanish chorizo always has less fat and is more finely ground than a Mexican one.

While Mexican chorizo is seasoned with chili peppers and vinegar, Spanish chorizo is made basically with pork, sweet paprika and garlic, and is cured either to a hard sausage consistency, to be sliced and eaten as an appetizer, or to a softer consistency to use in cooking.

Many of the chorizos are deep red in color because they contain pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika). Not only does pimentón lend color and seasoning, but its oils make the chorizo last longer without refrigeration. Remember, until recently, refrigeration was not generally available.

Depending on the use of the finished product, lean and fat pork is chopped up in varying proportions. Garlic, salt, herbs and other seasonings are then added, perhaps with a little white wine to speed the natural fermentation process. It then rests for two days. This curing gives chorizo its typical slightly acidic taste. The cured and seasoned meat is stuffed into skins using a sausage machine. Finally, they are then tied and hung up to dry. In the wetter climate of northern Spain, they are sometimes pre-smoked for further preservation.

Other related 'embutidos' are salchichón and lomo embuchado. The lomo is an air-dried loin of pork. All the fat is removed from the meat, and then it is marinated in a mixture of seasonings similar to the chorizo. The marinated loin is stuffed in a beef casing and slightly smoked, or else it is air-dried for three to four months so that it will retain its tenderness. Together with jamón it is the highest expression of Spanish curing art.

Salchichón is similar to the Italian salami. It differs from most chorizos in that it contains no paprika, but does have cracked black pepper. The salchichón from Catalonia contains wine for added flavor.

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We find the most accessible Castilian city for the international tourist is Segovia, not far north of Madrid. It sports a dramatic Roman aqueduct, a fairy tale castle to which we have taken our kids many times, and a cathedral with a wonderful organ and proud, horizontal organ pipes jutting out ready to bathe the area with rich sound. However, speaking of rich, Segovia is where, over the years, we have spent many an hour savoring luscious roast suckling pig and lamb. Segovia also has a precious collection of Romanesque church architecture.

A personal favorite of ours in this region is the sweet, melancholy medieval city of Soria. It is a mythical town, a poet’s town, where it is satisfying to linger under the trees, along the cobblestone streets, and by the small Romanesque churches.

The other favorite of ours is León, with her simple and pure Gothic cathedral — a house of stunning stained glass. Adjoining it is the Basilica of San Isidoro, a place to which we return repeatedly. There we duck our heads and enter the royal pantheon of twenty-three kings and assorted royalty. The Romanesque frescoes, which cover the walls, are priceless, rivaling the painted churches of Romania.

There is so much more to the autonomous region of Castilla and León. We remember approaching the dramatically walled city of Ávila with almost a sense of awe. So much history has occurred within her walls; perhaps the most significant is the monastery where Santa Teresa initiated her sweeping spiritual reforms. In conjunction with her confessor, San Juan de la Cruz, she revolutionized the life of the Church from her time forward. It is a small city now, a little off the beaten track and therefore quite enjoyable.

Further off the beaten track is the venerable Zamora and her neighboring city, Toro, which boasts a splendid Romanesque church—one of the most architecturally pure—and several substantial red and white wines that are now getting their due.

In the midst of the old city is a plaza devoted to the Lusitanian Homeric hero Virianthus, who repelled Roman attacks on Zamora a dozen times between 147 and 139 BC before being betrayed.

Zamora’s heavy fortifications are amazing. They were built in response to many ferocious confrontations between the Muslims and Christians. After the establishment of the Christian Kingdom of Asturias in 723, the settlement was a strategic site and control regularly shifted from the early 8th century through the late 11th century.

During the 12th century, the city was extraordinarily important for its strategic position in the wars between the Kingdom of León and the Arabs to conquer the Iberian Peninsula. As a result, the city preserves many churches and buildings from that time. Zamora, with its twenty-four Romanesque churches, has more than any other city in all of Europe. The city is more than a museum, however; its Semana Santa processions are among the most profound in Spain. Next to Zamora is the historic city of Valladolid, which has a magnificent museum filled with Semana Santa processional platforms with their dramatic woodcarvings, mostly from the 17th century.

Just south of Valladolid is another amazing city—Salamanca, home of one of the first universities in Europe. Today it is the site of many language schools, since the Castilian language spoken here is purported to be the most pure in Spain. Nearby is the Dehesa, the medieval forest meadows where the fabled Iberian pigs are raised.

For extreme contrast, one can head north to Burgos, which boasts one of the most extravagant late Gothic churches in the world. Built over a period of several centuries, it is an amalgam of many Gothic styles. The result is breathtaking—especially the many slim flying buttresses. Down the road in the meadows is Monasterio de San Miguel Escalada, a fascinating Mozarabic structure built in 913 AD. In the other direction, 2 miles from the walls of Burgos, is the looming Real Monasterio de Santa María de las Huelgas. It was run by a very powerful series of abbesses and was also the site of the marriage of Edward I of England and Eleanor of Castile.

There is so much more to this, the heart of historical Spain—Romans, Lusitanians, Moors, Christians, warring princes and princesses, the knight El Cid, wine, roast meat, and art galore.

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Jamón Serrano is a source of great pride among Spaniards. From time immemorial in the mountains of Spain, artisans have packed fresh hams in sea salt and hung them from their rafters to cure. A year to eighteen months later the jamones are ready to mount on special stands that are designed so that anyone can stop by, carve a few paper-thin slices, and enjoy an impromptu snack – perhaps with some manchego cheese.

It is unlike the smoked and salty Virginia country hams, which have to be soaked and cooked. And it is significantly different from Italian prosciutto, which is cured for a few months with a coating of lard. The Spanish Jamón Serrano has distinctly more flavor, and significantly less salt than country ham and less fat than prosciutto.

Jamón Serrano is more than a delicacy in Spain; it is a normal part of every family’s life. Every tapas bar and neighborhood café has their own hams. During the Holiday Season there are literally hundreds of them hanging from the rafters of major food stores for the holiday shoppers.

What is the appeal? Jamón Serrano is a flavorful, natural ham, cured in the country air. This extended curing transforms the ham, imparting a deep flavor and aroma. You can serve it sliced paper-thin with cheese and olives, or use it to flavor your favorite Spanish recipes. No cooking is necessary.

The secret to jamón lies in its curing, recreating the effect of traditional techniques. This tradition is kept alive in rural areas where in early winter, family and friends gather to slaughter their livestock in preparation for winter months. The hams are placed in sea salt for a brief period of time – approximately one day per kilo – and then they are strung up. They are allowed to experience the changes of temperature as the seasons progress. The right time to eat them is when an experienced ham-master inserts a long splinter of cow bone and whiffs the jamón, like a connoisseur of wine who sniffs the cork.

Until recently there were no Serrano hams in the U.S. and we are proud to carry the best that are available. Whole hams are great for parties and family get-togethers, while a package of slices is convenient and great to serve at a moment's notice. However you serve it, Jamón Serrano will add the flavor of Spain to your home.

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Our family loves to journey to Galicia, a place where we can relax, enjoying life among cordial Celtic fisher folk and those who work the fields and tend the flocks. There is nothing quite like wandering the rias, or fjords, formed by mountain streams as they wend their way to the sea.

We love to drive along the lapping tidelands and the wave-pounded cliffs of Galicia. It is there, by the cliffs, that young men risk their lives to harvest seafood treasures from the ocean. Seafood, shellfish, octopus – it is all there in amazing abundance, celebrated in more than 300 gastronomic fiestas each year.

Central to the culture and piety of the region is the Camino de Santiago, where for 1,000 years, people have walked from all over Europe to Santiago de Compostela. Many years ago we traveled deep into the mountains on the eastern edge of Galicia, to visit the rustic pilgrimage way-station of Cebrero, with thatched shelters dating back to pre-history. Within the wind-swept chapel we saw what is believed to be the Holy Grail.

Santiago de Compostela is the amazing medieval pilgrimage site along which our family has journeyed many times. We always spend some time in the cathedral where the relics of Saint James lie. It is hard to put into words the effect of visiting a holy spot which has been visited by countless faithful for over 1,000 years. In addition we always find the granite arcades and the cobblestone streets of Santiago de Compostela alive with young university students and international pilgrims relaxing at the end of their journey. The scallops are amazing, and we think Galician bread is the best we have ever tasted.

Invariably we drive through the lush meadows and hidden valleys on our way to the city of Lugo with intact walls from medieval times. The municipal market is always bustling with local shoppers buying fresh produce from the local countryside, mellow Tetilla cow’s milk cheeses, countless shellfish and fish from the local stores, and bottles of light sparkling Albariño wine.

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Jamón is the culinary treasure of Spain. Spaniards enjoy more ham per person than anyone in the world. A whole jamón can be stored in your kitchen and used daily as tapas or in recipes. It is also a great conversation piece for parties and holiday gatherings.

Slicing Spanish Ham

To enjoy the flavor and authentic texture of a fine jamón, slice the ham with a long sharp knife in the following order: first the rump half (maza) which has the most meat and is the most tender, then the rump end (babilla) which is firmer and more cured, and lastly the end (punta). We recommend starting with the babilla since the maza will stay moist longer. Some parts of the ham will be much firmer and more intensely flavored than others depending on the thickness of the meat.

Remove the layer of fat from the top and the sides until the meat is exposed. Trim the fat as you slice. Cut small, very thin slices. Slice downwards with your free hand behind the knife.

Below is a video we made showing the proper method of carving a jamón.

Storage

Bone-In Jamón: Store your whole bone-in ham in the refrigerator in its original packaging for 2-3 months or until the best-by date. A day or two prior to cutting into your jamón, remove from the plastic packaging and store it uncut at room temperature on a ham holder or hang from the rope provided. Harmless white mold on the exterior of whole cured hams is not uncommon and can be wiped off using a cloth and some olive oil.

Once you have started slicing into it, the ham can be kept in a cool, dark place on a ham holder for 6 to 8 weeks. Cover the cut surface with reserved fat from the ham, and drape with plastic wrap and a light breathable cloth. Only cut into sections of your ham you plan to carve and eat within a few days. Do not remove skin or fat from other areas. Chunks of ham may be stored tightly wrapped in the refrigerator or freezer for longer term storage.

Boneless or Center Cut Jamón: Store your boneless or center cut ham in the refrigerator. For easier slicing with an electric slicer or ham knife, place the ham in the freezer for 20 minutes prior to slicing. Leftover pieces can be wrapped tightly in plastic and stored in the refrigerator or freezer for longer term storage.

Sliced Jamón: Your sliced jamón should be stored according to the package instructions. Serve slices at room temperature. Keep leftover slices refrigerated in an airtight container and consume within 3 to 5 days

Jamón Appearance

Mold: A thin layer of mold may appear on whole hams. This penicillin-like mold is completely harmless. It can be removed with a clean, damp cloth or with a cloth and olive oil.

Small white spots: These are small "chalky" granules that form between the muscle fibers during the curing process. They vary in shape, size and location. They are amino acids found in aged meat and cheese products and are perfectly safe to eat.

Iridescent coloring: This coloring can be seen on the cut surface of the ham and in certain parts of the meat. It is insignificant as far as the quality of the ham is concerned.

Salt: Sometimes salt can crystallize on the surface of the ham in dry conditions. This inorganic salt does not affect the flavor of jamón and can be brushed or wiped away.

White film: This may be seen on the cut surface of whole or boneless hams. Simply slice off the section with the film and discard the discolored slice.

Dark spots in the fat: These spots can appear in the white fat of jamones, particularly in hams made from Duroc pork or grain-fed Ibérico pork. These are oxidized blood pigments typical of a natural pork. They are harmless and do not affect the quality of the hams.

Fat: Whole hams are covered with a thick layer of fat, which protects the meat and helps it keep longer. Some areas are much dryer than others, and each part of the ham has a different texture and flavor.

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